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3.0 sc questions
I pulled off my heads to have a exaust stud removed and found some flaking on the cams leak down numbers were ok so I had the heads done
1. I have Alusil cylinders should I leave the pistons in and not re-ring? that is what I am leaning towards 2. oil pressure relief pistons do I have the old style and you only use the new style with the block recut for the new style 1983 sc 3. the engine has 85K miles should I change rod bolts? 4. since I am changing cams (web cam) do I need to refurb the rocker arms they look good 5. since I am removing the o2 sensor is there anything else I should do ( installing ssi and dual in dual out) to the injection system |
Since the cam lobes had pitting, I am sure the rockers are worn. Unless you trust yourself to inspect them its better to replace them than ruin a new set of expensive cams.
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1. I have Alusil cylinders should I leave the pistons in and not re-ring? that is what I am leaning towards
If they look good, leave them alone. 2. oil pressure relief pistons do I have the old style and you only use the new style with the block recut for the new style 1983 sc It is a good idea to replace the old valves and springs with new ones. This allows you to clean out the passages and insure the correct ones are installed. No case work is required 3. the engine has 85K miles should I change rod bolts? LEAVE THE BOTTOM END ALONE 4. since I am changing cams (web cam) do I need to refurb the rocker arms they look good New cams deserve new or refurbished rocker. We now provide this service. PS: I would use cams from "camgrinder". He knows of what he speaks and he has a top quality product. 5. since I am removing the o2 sensor is there anything else I should do ( installing ssi and dual in dual out) to the injection system ThE frequency valve must be removed and the lines plugged. Next the warmup regulator has to be exchanged for an 033. |
5. or you can just leave the oxy sensor off and set the CO to 3.5%. the frequency valve will still need to function though. cheaper that way.
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It has been our experience that what John suggest will work but the drivability, especially when cold will be seriously compromised. First check our host for rebuilt regulators or
we has a great price on rebuilt warm-up regulators. If you feel lucky you can carefully adjust the existing one. TAP ONCE, CHECK TWICE:) |
i've never noticed any drivability issues running with the oxy sensor disconnected, 3.5%, and the rest of the system working, on 80-83 SCs. many here have done it with good results. it would be nice to get rid of the frequency valve system entirely and go back to the plain jane 78/79 system, but the price of bosch parts like the warmup regulator has gone thru the roof lately.
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I feel I can actually chime in with some knowledge haha, for once. Anyways in my dads car resides a 78 3.0 with 20/21s, SSI's and a two in two out muffler. CIS is still there but I took the WUR off and it has been pretty chilly in the mornings lately. The only thing he has to do is crank it over and set it warm up at around 1k for 5 minutes and it's good to go, helps that the center control idle lever is still there. No problems with it yet.
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you mean you took the AIR regulator off, right? they need the warmup regulator at all times.
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oh yes haha, the wur is on the left bank of the engine if you are standing behind the car correct? yeah i took the air reg off on the right side under the airbox between the intake runners.
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