Slight leaks from chain boxes... easy fix?
 

Hi guys, well I'm slowly putting some miles on the RS spec engine I've built and am over-all happy with how it's turned out (not enough miles to really give it heaps yet).

I do have two small leaks from the same place in both chain boxes where they meet the engine case. I used graphite gaskets and did not use a sealer/goo as per Wayne's book (others told me to use some hylomar...). I've given the 13mm nuts an extra tweak, but I still get a leak from here. Is there any other way to sort this these leaks other than pulling the boxes off and having to re-time cams etc...?

Like I said, they are not bad... I just want to be perfect :)

Hay, I too took exspurt advice and have the same leaks.:D
Live & learn....but I'll do better next time.

Thanks JP... I figured that I'll be learing to live with :)

Where exactly are you seeing the leak? I'm just asking because there are other sources of leaks travel along the bottom of the chain box and collect at the bottom.
-Chris

Hi Chris

As the engine is new and clean I think the leaks are coming from "somewhere" in the join betwen the chain box and the case. Where else should I be looking?

Cheers

John,
I had my 3.0 L engine rebuilt this spring and I've had it back to my mechanic twice now to have the camshaft cover seals replaced on the right side. This guy is great and very, very anal about his work. This last time around he found that the camshaft cover plate had a slight warp so he machined it flat and re-installed..new gasket, new seal and of course sealant. I have a few hundred miles on the latest repair..time will tell.
Peace, Ron

Yeah, I guess it's just one of those things. I'll know next time and definitely use some form of sealer with the gaskets.

Soak them in Curil T before assembly. I will next time :(

The problem is probably not the gasket. We have found that over the years people over tighten these housing bolts and warp the housing. We resurface these housings and when reassembling them apply a "very thin " coat of Loctite 574.
We have also found that different kits come with different thickness of gasket. Although for some application the thick gasket helps to dimension the chain housing better, when possible we use the factory thin gasket for the best results.
For the best possible gaskets and gasket kits we only use Wrightwood Racing gaskets and kits. Charlie is a perfectionist so he only uses the finest gaskets available. No matter how much it cost.
Ask your Pelican parts guy if he can get them. Because the Pelican people like to sell the best possible parts they may already stock them.

I guess I woudl surface grind or take a skim next time too. It's my only leak. :( Very annoying to be so close....

All well & good, but I sprung (NPI) for brand new aluminum chain boxes as my old mag jobbies were kinda shakey.

I looked at those long thin runs with no fasteners ......
My instinct was to go with some kind of goop. I have no one to blame but me. Oh well, the leak around the # 8 bearing is worse. I've yet to figure out what I did wrong there.....no goop again.

So your chain box was flat, but was the case mating surface flat?

I would second the idea that 2.7's should have silicone or something here as a safeguard.