removing injector liners from intake manifold
 

Guys, I was hoping to get description on how to remove the injector sockets in my 79 911SC intake manifold. The injectors will remove but the sleeves seem like they are peened in the manifold runners. I would like to replace the orings on these sleeves as well as the injector o-rings.
Would like to remove these with the manifold installed......removing the manifold is a nightmare.
Any advice appreciated.

I had a really hard time trying to get mine out so I finally removed the manifolds and banged them out from the inside. Even then a few of them gave me a hard time coming out as you can see from the image below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1102052169.jpg

Another angle of the used sleves.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1102052380.jpg

if you can dremel off the three raised stake marks, you will have a better chance of them coming out.

I second what JW said. After grinding off the "tabs" with a plug stuffed in the hole, vacuum the chips out, then lightly screw in a tap of sufficient size, then yank out with a pair of pliers. After inserting the new one, lightly stake it in place with a chisel or punch. I just did this to one on my 79 SC and it was a piece of cake. Just try not to let any crap fall into the manifold.

Re-install of injector sleeves
 

BACKGROUND:
My engine was rebuilt about 35k or 40k miles ago by PO x2. The motor sometimes bogs down under power and occasionally when I depress the accelerator during idle. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, cap, fuel pressure is in spec so the WUR seems good. The injectors as mostly loose to the touch in the sleeves and in some cases the sleeves are loose. I'm guessing that I have an air leak with the sleeves.

ACTION:
I'm going to be replacing my injectors and sleeves today.

QUESTIONS:
I've read (above) in nearly all the threads that the injector sleeves or inserts can be removed with a Dremel tool grinding off the 'tabs' that hold the sleeves in place. In the Bentley manual, they outline a hex-shaped socket which is removed with a corresponding wrench.

Does anyone have any advice here.... my injector sleeves do look like they are held in with a hex patterned socket but the size is huge. Does anyone know what size of the hex key needed? (I need to buy one).

Also, Bentley recommends that the sleeves have threads that should be coated with Loctite 620 before inserting... the sleeves that I got from our host look those above... no threads but they do have that same lips or ridges.

Any advice before I open this up would be great. Thank you.

Update: Upon closer look... I have the same as the prev posts... not the hex nut that Bently describes. I ground out the area that had been pushed down onto the sleeve and it came out pretty easy. Is there a trick for getting more difficult sleeves to come out? I'm not inclined to put anythng into the sleeve and try to grab it (a hooked coat hanger?) as much as I am tempted. I purchased an extra O-ring for the injectors so I put that on the old injector and after grinding down and "tabs", I insert the old injector with the new o-ring and out comes the sleeve. 1 down, 6 to go. Any additional advice would be much appreciated. Thank you!

The threaded injector sleeves were used on VW and Audi, Porsche chose to stake in the injector sleeves for some unknown reason. The sleeve O ring is the same spec as the injector seals, so of course, the hard to replace part bakes and dies earlier. A vacuum leak at the injectors will have little or no effect under power, mostly at idle and during cold idle. I recommend you remove the runners to replace the sleeves, you should be replacing the runner boots and gaskets at the same time if you are trying to seal up the injection system. This moves the grinding swarf issue to the bench. If you have a US 1982 911SC, the first tool you need to use to get an optimum tune on your CIS is a dwell meter.

Thanks psalt. I removed the sleeves after grinding down the 'tabs' as described above. on the sleeves that didn't slide out on their own, I took a hex bolt and super glued the head of the bolt to the inside of the sleeve. The sleeves were stuffed with foam to keep the filings out of the engine during the grinding so here was no chance of the super glue going where it shouldn't. Worked perfectly.
All new injectors in place... started up and ran great... except I'm still getting some hesitation when I accelerate from idle to about 3K rpm... from there it goes to a smooth run. I stumped... only happens when the engine is warm... checked the WUR and the fuel pressures all seem fine. I've changed the cap, rotor, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors and sleeves (these were loose). Can you point me in the next step...what is a "dwell meter"?
Thanks.

The US 82 911SC has a test port under the plastic cover in the engine compartment that allows you to read the duty cycle of the FV , verify that the system is working correctly open and closed loop and make accurate mixture adjustments. The engine will not run correctly unless the lambda system is working. An analog dwell meter, the kind used to set ignition points, will tell you what is going on. Try searching this site for "CIS lambda".