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Flywheel screws won't torque up!
Based on experience, What are my options?
I'm torqing up the fly wheel screws on a 1980 3.0 (9 screws, 10 x 1.0), crisscross pattern as per WD's book. Two screws will not come up to final torque, so I FULL STOP. I think my options are: 1. Do nothing (Always option #1 in my world) 2. Remove wheel. Install inserts. I figure the drill will follow the exisitng hole and I don't want to do Option 3. 3. Do Option 2 after removing crank from case. :confused: |
i guess you mean flywheel to crank bolts. 66ft lb. never had a problem with them. the early engines went about 115ft lb, on the 6 bolt models. forget about drilling or inserting the crank threads. they're probably still ok, being they're harder than the bolts. what torque spec do you have?
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If it was me I would:
- Compare new bolts to old bolts. - Pull flywheel and examine holes. - Check torque wrench. - Make sure I was torquing them to 66ft-lbs, not the much higher torque of the earlier 6 bolt flywheels. - Check threads of new bolts for deformation from over torquing. If I overtorqued them I wouldn't use even the ones that did torque up. -Chris |
We have been having problems with flywheel bolts on both 6 and 9 bolt cranks so we replace them with new ones. If you install new bolts and still have a problem, look to the threads in the crank.
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Some late model flywheel bolts are torque to yield bolts that should be replaced. I imagine you are attempting to reuse a set that are deforming on you. Take them out before you break one off in the crank and get a new set.
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The torque to yield bolts started with the dual mass flywheel cars (964's).
-Chris |
I dunno about that, I know the late model flywheel bolts are a 'replace after use' bolt which leads me to suspect a TTY.
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Check your torque wrench for calibration. I had a Snap On that was way off and snapped the bolts on a ford rocker arms.
Kevin |
Quote:
-Chris |
The flywheel bolts on a 1970 911T are single use, torque to yield bolts, I would suspect that most of the others are as well. IE use once and then toss them. And it don't matter what the manual says, these bolts MUST be replaced.
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Thanks for the replies. The bolts are new and were supplied by... (Wait for it!) ... Pelican. I haven't done autopsy yet, as there's two more sources I want to consult. Jack, the history of the crank (remember: it's a 3.0 circa 1980) is unknown and the engine didn't have a flywheel on it when purchased. Hmm. Thanks again for everyone's valuable input. I'll be back.
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Dumb questions from the backrow:
Is the clutch plate assembly correctly assembled? did you run the bolts into the holes to finger tightness before assembly to make sure there were threads to begin with? Are you using the little $10 tool to center your flywheel assembly? |
David,
Clutch Plate Assembly not installed yet. Finger assembly and prelim torque-up was A-OK and felt good. There's a tool for one of these mills that only cost $10 ? |
PEL-TOL-CA2 Clutch alignment tool
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_clutch_pg7.htm#item25 Sorry, $8.65 each! :-) |
I made my own tool for free with a piece of plastic stock and a lathe. :cool:
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Quote:
"Broom handle? Musta been nice. We had to whittle our own out of wood with a pocket knife." "Geesh, wish we had pocket knives. We had to use a pointed stick." "Pointed sticks?!! We would have given our right arm for a pointed stick..." Sorry, I think I need to adjust my dosage... :D -Chris |
Jeez, you guys had RIGHT arms ?
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Always triple check and if possible cross check torque specs on Porsche parts. I once used a newer torque spec on a diff part, stretched the bolt out like a piece of spagettie, wrong spec.
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Diassembled bolts and found three that are stretched. The photo is not too focused, but you can see the elongation. I'll be more careful on the next batch.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1106236088.jpg :p
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you never said what torque spec you were using.
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