2.2 T engine mild upgrade

[PAT4]

Hello,

We bought in january a 2.2 T in very nice condition.



The engine runs beautifully without any problem but is in "used condition". We bought an other 2.2 T engine (code 911-07) that is also in "used condition" and we are planning to rebuild it to new.



So, as the cost to rebuild a 911 engine is pretty similar to rebuild a S or a T engine, we are looking about a mild upgrade of the 2.2 T. The first step we think about is about pistons (may be E or S type) to increase Compr. Ratio but may be other things can be done (I think about carbs and/or flow-bench heads...)

We will be happy to have other suggestions or may be a complete upgrade configuration... We have Zenith carbs and 40 IDA carbs both.

any suggestion welcome

[trak ratt]

E cams probably make the most sense for street use. Valves are same size and I believe ports are same for Ts and Es with Ss a little larger. IMO bigger ports wont help on the street. Ts have slightly less compression ratio so E cams will probably net 140/145 hp or so. That’s assuming recurving the distributor to e-specs, some jetting for the carbs, and a good valve job. Use the Webers, Zeniths are OK for stock but hard to hotrod. If you don’t have one get a bosh distributor, use E advance springs and E rotor. Parts for Marellis are stupid expensive or unattainable. Not much else can be done without new Ps&Cs and lots of $$$$.
E cam profiles on your T cams about $900, vale job $1,200 to $1,600, Bosh distributor (w/parts and recurve) $400+, engine rebuild kit $400-$500, endless odds and ends $2K+, labor $3K-$4K. No mater what else you do get some books on 911s i.e. 101 Projects, 911 Rebuild.
Ts make nice around town and road cars. Also, lots of fun for Auto-X and some DEs. Why not spend the money on suspension renewal/upgrades, “good tyres”, period correct wheels and some “driving events”(keep the cookie cutters, introduced in ‘74 for track tyres).

Oh yeah, real nice car!

[jluetjen]

I'd double check that there is enough clearance between the T pistons and the valves with E cams. If it were me I'd keep the same cylinders and get some E or S pistons style too. Using E cams with T pistons will actually net you a lower functional compression ratio.

BTW -- What happened to your face??? It's melted!

[PAT4]

Hi all,

The person on the picture is my wife

David, I think your prices are a little bit expensive. For the E cams, Dougherty Racing Cams offers them around $300 and if rebuilding 6 heads costs $1200-$1500 I will probably a machine shop next !

BTW, our engine needs to be rebuilt, it does not have its entire power. It is the reason why we are thinking about an upgrade.

jluetjen, sure I will look for E or S pistons.

[BK911]

I'd install a 2.4 crank and rods, replace the marelli, and call it a day. Of course replace/rebuild anything else out of spec.

The next step would be E cams, then maybe 2.2E or S pistons. But a bone stock 2.2T with a 2.4 crank/rods makes a pretty sweet street engine.

[PAT4]

Interesting point of view... getting HP simply with the displacement.

Are all 2.4 cranks similar ? counterweighted or not ?

[BK911]

The 2.4T, E and S cranks are all counter weighted.

You'll have a 2.4T with 2.4S compression. Very nice street engine Definitely the most bang for the buck.

[trak ratt]

$300 for both is a very good price; each would be what some others charge like Web Cams. $900 was for planning as most locals charge more. Porsche started using fully counter balanced, steel cranks in all 2.4s in late ‘72. New P&Cs and 2.4 crank = lots of $$$$, why not sell one of the 2.2s and just buy a 2.4. Complete engines are often much less than their separate parts? I got an early ‘73 MFI 2.4 (not running) last year, wrapped in a 911 sunroof coupe, S brakes, S bumper, horn grill mounted fogs, original sport seats for $2k.
2.4Ts had 130hp with 7.5cr, 140hp with MFI. Ss came with 8.5, same as 2.2 Ts! 2.2 T pistons in a 2.4 with E-cams = some where in the 175hp range. As previously observed this would make a real nice streetcar, running regular gas. Add a set of 2.2 S pistons and you are in the S hp range only 300 rpm sooner. Better low end torque too.
If you rebuild your own motor you should read a lot of how-to-books, most of which will tell you to check valve to piston clearance, upgrade to pressure tensioners and turbo valve covers, use different studs etc. etc.

[snowman]

You have a real problem. Its cheeper to ditch the T than to upgrade it significantly in my humble opinion. To many significant differences between a T and the E or S engine. The differences are as follows:
Pistons, cylinders, rods, crank, cams, oil squirters, minor porting, oil cooler just off the top of my head. It would be cheeper to find something nicer and sell the T engine as is.

If you do upgrade the T, you will put in more money than its worth and in the end it will still be a T engine.

[Bobboloo]

If the car is for street use only then I think the T cam is the best choice given the 2.2L displacement.

Don't even think about porting. 32mm ports are plenty large for a 2.2 street motor. You could use them all the way up to 2.7L if you wanted.

I think Brians' idea is the best improvement for your particular motor. You can find these 2.4 cranks every now and then on ebay for around $250. The increased stroke will increase your compression ratio by about .5 points as well as increase displacement.

But really, a 2.2 is not the best starting point if you want more performance. It's cheaper to just buy a bigger motor.

By the way. That's a very nice car. Hang on to your original motor. The market on these cars is really heating up and the original cars bring the most money.

[PAT4]

Thank you for all your responses.
The 2.4 crank and rods are an interesting suggestion. And it is counterweighted.

The idea is not to build a race engine. Just to optimize a rebuild job.

[Jay Auskin]

I sort of did what BK911 said. I started with a 2.4L T, and put in 2.2L T p/c's. That yielded me a little higher compression. I have a slight advantage over a pre-'72 since I have MFI.