seating the rings
 

What do you rec. for seating the rings on this rebuild 3.2 to 3.4?

You will find a wide variation on recommendations. I'd do what the owners manual says. Run the engine at various speeds avoiding full throttle runs for the first 500 miles or so. (I'm saying this from memory, I haven't read this lately).

-Andy

I used the aggressive break in approach.

I filled her up with 30wt oil with no detergents and ran her like a bat out of hell once she started. I made sure that I got good compression going on both sides of the rings with a few good downshifts and wide open throttle sprints. So far I’ve put about 5,000 miles on the rebuild and she still sounds and runs like a top with minimal (1qt 3000mi) oil consumption.

I originally got the idea from reading this thread here on Pelican

Which made reference to this site
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I am personally a believer in having a staged redline as you break it in. Don't baby it below that value. No highway cruising. Short fast accelerations would be best.

Its all about cylinder pressure. Hard pulls up-hill will do it. Follow the link Simon posted. Its a great read.

Just make sure your engine is well warmed up before doing this.

I am about to restart my 3.6 very shortly after a re-ring and topend. Should I start her up, run at 2K RPM for about 5 minutes while I check for leaks, etc. Shutdown to make sure everything is okay. Then hit the street and drive the heck out of it?

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anthony

I have always used a straight mineral oil for breakin and held down the revs for several hundred miles until all the new parts got happy with one another and have had not problems, Aeroshell makes a nice sae 40 mineral oil.

Craig

You need to remember that the factory ran the motor on the stand for a while before it was delivered so the owner's manual break-in directions might not be relevant.
If you haven't changed the rockers and cams there is nothing to "break-in" (besides the rings).
If it was my motor I'd get it up to temp and then wind the piss out of it, varying the throttle to produce an engine braking effect.
-Chris

We started my motor up, ran at 2K for 5 minutes, 3K for 5 minutes and 4K for 5 minutes, checking for any leaks, noises, etc during this time period. Than off to the races (so to speak) but I kept it under 5K for the first 500 miles or so. This is also how PMNA used to "break-in" 962 motors before doing full throttle power runs. I've used a 1/3 qt. in almost 3,000 miles.

A wise old engine builder I know says you should "drive it like a complete idiot" during the initial break-in period.

Ralph

I remember an old hot-rod guy giving me great advice when I was a teenager doing my first big-block Chevy that sounded more (at the time) like a country song. Goes something like this:

1) She'll always cost ya more than you'd planned
2) Cleaniness is next to Godliness
3) Pick the parts that should go together like you would buy a complete suit, shirt and tie.
4) Measure twice, cut once (stolen from the carpenters bible)
5) Tuning a engine is as important as a married couple still getting along after 20yrs.
6) AND THE MOST IMPORTANT! The new parts aren't friendly yet (they don't know each-other) so the break in should be done in a progressive, heat cycled manner just like two teenagers out on their first date!!

Man, even today I can hear that guy talking!! He had a very good rep as a hot rod guy and could make a car run. I realize years later just how smart that guy really was! :D

Since I'm getting close to the break-in process. I've been reading a number of links and of course the Wayne book. If you boil down what people say....you want to get pressure behind the compression rings as soon and as much as possible WITHOUT over heating the rings. A number of places mention warming the engine up.....same as the Wayne book....I think the only worry is ..... will glaze form in the first 20 minutes at 2k. If not then we are fine to follow the Wayne book because after that we follow the power on power off cycling which almost all of the articles mention as the thing to do. It makes sense get the rings to bed in and at the same time you want oil coming from compression and coast down "decompression" and this gets the oil to flow back and forth over the rings to haul all the junk out of there from the wearing in. That's my 2 cents after reading a number of sites.....the airplane engine guys have a lot to say on this...

-h