3.2L Connecting Rod Bushing Replacement
 

Question: I'm replacing my bushings on my 3.2L connecting rods and I noticed that the new ones did not have holes pre-drilled into them for oil passage. What is the proper sequence of steps to do this, is it:

1. Press out old ones then install new ones, then drill out oil passages. Then chamfer inside to allow oil flow into the rod?

or

2. Press out old ones and measure holes then pre-drill holes and chamfer new bushings before installing back into the rods?

How do you chamfer the inside and how much is needed?

Last question, once installed do the rod bushings need to be reamed?

Thanks,

Alex

Any reason you just just don't have the rods rebuilt for $200?
-Chris

Fair question, I'm the kind of individual that likes to learn as much as possible and save money along the way. Maybe I am doing too much on my own but it makes me feel good that I can do these tasks. I do plan to farm out other tasks that I just don't have enough time for.

Best Regards,

Alex

I hear you on doing stuff yourself. I guess I'd do more myself if I had a machine shop and the skills.
-Chris

Chris,

I'm a mechanical and electrical engineer and I guess that is why I enjoy doing these things myself. Thanks for your comments.

Best Regards,

Alex

Just curious as to if this was resolved...
I'm thinking of having these checked locally (everything else sent to Ollies) for ovality. Is it assumed the con rod bushing (small end) are always replaced or is it better to leave well enough alone, ASSUMING they measure in spec.
And, are the holes drilled after installation or are they predrilled in the bushing and then pressed in properly aligned?

Just to follow up my last post...I'm having some parts measured locally and wondered about the connecting rods. IF the beg end has not ovalized and still measures in spec is there any reason they have to be rebuilt, i.e. having the faces cut down and then the hole rebored?