Unusual oil leak?

[WERK I]

I found an oil spot on the garage floor! It runs down to the lowest point on the crankcase from this spot pictured. The bolt and crush washer you see is the driver's side lower chain guide thru-bolt. My question(s) for the builders out there is;
Is this a common problem? Can the bolt be removed, new crush washer w/sealer applied and be reinserted successfully? I wonder if removing the bolt will cause the chain guide to drop, making it impossible to insert the bolt again. Other suggestions are welcome.

[ChrisBennet]

I wouldn't risk removing that bolt for just the reason you mention. I think the chain will hold the ramp right where you want it but if it doesn't...

If snugging up the bolt didn't stop the leak, I would screw it out 1/4" and smear some Dow Corning 111 on both sides of the washer and tighten it up.

Then I would brake-kleen the head of the bolt and make a mark ("Liquid Paper" or paint) on the bolt and adjacent case so I could see if the bolt loosened when I checked it for leaks the next time.
111 isn't a great sealer but it doesn't hurt anything either.

-Chris

[cstreit]

It's unlikely that the guide would drop if you removed it all the way, but possible and would require a partial drop potentially to remove the cam chain box cover and reset the chain ramp. Backing it out a little bit and gooping some silicone around it (better yet, Curil-T as I'm anti-silicone), then re-torqueing should fix the problem.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by cstreit
It's unlikely that the guide would drop if you removed it all the way, but possible and would require a partial drop potentially to remove the cam chain box cover and reset the chain ramp. Backing it out a little bit and gooping some silicone around it (better yet, Curil-T as I'm anti-silicone), then re-torqueing should fix the problem.

I'm not a fan of RTV type silicone either but D.C. 111 is that clear non-hardening stuff (commonly used on O-rings). It has the consistency of thick petroleum or KY Jelly.
-Chris

[WERK I]

Chris and Chris,
Thanks to you both for your sound advice. ChrisB, you know me, I've got to know the reason "why?". The right side is not leaking which leads me to believe the thru-bolt bore must be scored or I over torqued the bolt and made the washer concave.
Also, you both mention either 111 or Curil T which are non-hardening agents. Does Dow 111 cure to a pliable state like Curil T? I ask because I want to put a little of the sealer near the head of the bolt so that when the bolt enters the case, it helps create a better seal.

[ChrisBennet]

Dow Corning 111 never "cures", you can wipe it right off years later. It' comes in a greeen toothpast style tube.
-Chris
P.S. Maybe your motor is weeping a little 'cause it misses the Duc?

[WERK I]

Chris and Chris,
An update: Applied Curil T to the affected areas....used Curil T because that is what I had on hand.....both sides of the aluminum washer treated, bolt torqued.
Note: washer had flattened, hence the leak.
After two weeks of running, no leaks...dry as a bone.
Thanks guys!

[sammyg2]

Dow corning 111 is a silicone grease so it isn't really designed to seal anything, just lubricate elasomers and high pressure valve packing.
It might have worked but it would prolly be a first