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Dave Taylor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Southern Oregon
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Valve Stem Seals

Thought I'd replace these while the top end is apart. Old ones come off easily enough, but how are the new ones put on? They seem awfully tight and I'm afraid to tap them for fear of deforming them. Help!!

Thanks, Dave
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Dave Taylor

1974 911 Coupe 2.7 Guards Red/Black Trim, Tbitz EFI, MSD
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Old 07-18-2005, 07:25 PM
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D troop 3/5 CAV ,162 AHC
 
afterburn 549's Avatar
 
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there should be a seal gard with them (looks like a very small straw) clear plastic,you slip over the valve, slide seal dwn and remove lil plastic tube ,go to next one and so on.
Old 07-18-2005, 09:17 PM
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afterburn,
They didn't come with the straw-like plastic, but I made one that works great. Thanks for the information.
Dave
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Dave Taylor

1974 911 Coupe 2.7 Guards Red/Black Trim, Tbitz EFI, MSD
1974 Super Beetle Sun Bug
1959 356A (sold)
1954 Hudson Hornet Project For Sale

18 Years In Storage 1974 911
My Car in the Pelican Gallery
Old 07-19-2005, 06:00 PM
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The guy who does my heads for me always "stakes" the seals so they don't come off.
-Chris
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Old 07-19-2005, 06:43 PM
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Chris,
I understand that on 3.2 engines, maybe others, over time there have been different seals that were used or could have been used. One theory is that one or more types of seals used by the factory were too good...not allowing enough oil to the stems. Is there an agreed current best brand and type to be used on rebuilds? It is a bit late for me to ask this but it might help others.
-Henry
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Old 07-25-2005, 05:05 PM
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Stakes them?! By denting the seal metal ring or the valve guide itself... Scary if you ask me... I've never seen one come off..
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cstreit
Stakes them?! By denting the seal metal ring or the valve guide itself... Scary if you ask me... I've never seen one come off..
I'll try to dig out a head and look at how they were staked. My memory is a little fuzzy on the details.
-Chris
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Old 07-26-2005, 03:28 AM
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use the 964 seals. the 928 part # seals are very hard to install without killing a few. the installation tool is a 13mm deep socket, cleaned very well inside, and a short extension. they push on by hand nicely. i used to use the hard white ones, but they get brittle and come off sometimes. i've never staked them. i wonder how that is done? on occasion, mostly on 912s, a bit of super glue keeps them in place. some guide tops are machined differently than others and the seals may fit tighter/looser.
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Last edited by john walker's workshop; 07-26-2005 at 07:17 AM..
Old 07-26-2005, 07:13 AM
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Slighty OT in this thread but...

I used the white teflon ones recently and found that despite the popular opinion of them allowing more oil for better cooling of the valves, they actually dragged on the valve more and appeared to offer less oiling.

In addition this particular motor had a very high lift cam and the taller teflon ones were getting hit by the valve spring retainer... So we had to use the viton ones on top, and used no seal on the bottom... (race motor)
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2001 GT3 Cup - "Pepin"
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2008 Yamaha R6
1971 Norton 750 Commando
Old 07-26-2005, 07:49 AM
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I looked at a head this morning and the metal part of the valve stem seal has an obvious punch/prick mark where my head guy staked them.

My head guy once told me that the teflon ones wear out the valves faster for the reason the Chris S. discovered.

-Chris
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Old 07-26-2005, 04:34 PM
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...and yet I had always heard they leak MORE and allow MORE oil through...

Anyone know the truth of this?
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2001 GT3 Cup - "Pepin"
1996 993 RS Replica
2008 Yamaha R6
1971 Norton 750 Commando
Old 07-27-2005, 06:55 AM
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like all of it,they get old and brittle in time....like me
Old 07-27-2005, 09:22 PM
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Teflon seals allow a bit more oil through than the Factory Viton ones,....

I like to use them on the exhaust valves on Turbos for bit more lubrication for those highly stressed components.
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Old 07-27-2005, 11:12 PM
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