No start - gas smell, sounds normal.

[JeremyD]

Did the initial start sequence on my car - but no joy. Oil pressure built well, I can smell gas - (built pressure with DME relay disconnected)

Traced the spark plug wires - look OK - I installed my old rotor just in case. Sparkplugs gapped correctly.

What else?

[hcoles]

a far out idea...both cams 180 out or cams reversed...almost happened to me...I only had one 180 out. smell gas no fire on one bank, check firing order/etc. and look at cams to see that things make sense as you go the 720 around, watch the rotor to see when each cyl. wants to fire

[asphaltgambler]

Are you certain that there is strong spark at the plugs?

[JeremyD]

Not yet - good way to check that? I'm in the process of trying to secure a timing light - seems like the next possible step. Maybe replace my DME Relay (I have a spare), Maybe double check my reference sensor gap...

[echrisconnor]

Don't fret yet. You can, of couse, check that you're getting spark at the plugs. Or, just even check to see that with the ignition on, that you're getting power to the injectors.

After a buddy of mine and I finished a 3.2 swap we spent two days trying to figure out why it wouldn't fire up. We went through a bunch of the standard Motronic troubleshooting procedures. We ruled out the DME relay as the problem... Finally we realized that the brain was unplugged. Duh. One plugged in... first crank did it.

When I did my initial start (granted this was on a CIS car), it didin't want to start at first. This was probably because all the cranking to build oil pressure had let the ignition heat the thermotime switch, the WUR, AAV etc. So, by the time I wanted to start it, all the cold start components were all out of whack.

[JeremyD]

Thanks - I needed that - yes a little dejected - a little disappointed... But I will work through this - troubleshoot and get it started. If I can't get it started over the long weekend then I will flat bed it to my mechanic and let him do it. Last thing I want to do is screw up all my expensive components.

[911mot]

Check the two speed and reference sensor multiplugs in the gang of three - they are the same but car wont start if they are the wrong way round.

[echrisconnor]

Jerimy,

This thread covers a lot of good motronic troubleshooting procedures. It's for a 924, but the logic all applies to the 3.2. I used a bunch of these procedures when wiring and troubleshooting the 3.2 swap I did too.

924S Won't Start - Help

The wiring diagram in Haynes manual is surprisingly good. Unplugging the brain and checing voltages, and resistances across the pins is really easy.

The odds are by far in your favor that its just some disconnected wire or sensor that's causing the no-start. I tend to view things catastrophically and as soon as there's a problem, I think of the worst case scenario. Don't. It isn't healthy, although I'm frequently pleasantly surprised.

[JeremyD]

Thanks Echrisconner. I saw that thread on a search - and bypassed it because it was a 924...

[JeremyD]

OK Switched the sensors (reference and speed and got spark) but now turns over and turns over - the backfires - could it be possible I have the distributor 180 degrees out - and how to fix?

[KobaltBlau]

nice job 911mot! Jeremy said in the other forum that your fix worked.

[JeremyD]

Yeah 911mot - thanks - that helped get the spark - then I had the distributor 180 degrees and vrooooooom!

[DW SD]

Congratulations!! How does it run?

[JeremyD]

Originally posted by DW SD
Congratulations!! How does it run?

Like a scalded cat... 4000-5000 was alot of fun - the cams are just starting to come "on" at that range. Can't wait until after break in - I think I'll be spending quite a bit of time north of 5,000 rpms...

[DW SD]

SOUNDS excellent! Congratulations!

Doug

[JeremyD]

Thanks Doug!