Engine sitting after rebuild?
 

How long can an engine sit after rebuild? I have an engine having some parts machined and will be doing my first rebuild. I also am restoring the car with a bare metal respray. I'm a little worried having the engine done too soon. There is still a lot of work to do on the body, etc...

I assume its high and dry?? assy correctly with all the right lube in the right places?? pretty long time

Just follow correct break-in procedure of rotating engine until oil pressure is indicated on the gauge. Should be fine.

I think I had several (3-4) months on mine. Just as the others said, if you have all the items pregreased, stored nicely, and then get the oil up to pressure, there should be no problem.

I would coat the valve faces and seats with some assembly lube to prevent any corrosion. Make sure you keep you intakes covered if you are doing a short block. Don't want to go in to fish something that might have fallen in. Don't forget to turn it every so often. Lou

I had a customer, He got an early S that sat for a LONG time( back yard find). There was build up all on the intake ports( GUM ) we poured ATF in the intake and let it sit for about a week. Between rotated once a day..
Once we got it started, smoke filled the sky, like an L.A riot scene.. After about 30 min of running, smoke blew over, and car became a screamer..... AMAZING what some cemicals can do...

Of course after we did the normal service...

I have a fresh BMW M635 inline 6 motor that i have stored in my shop. It is stored on a stand with a big plastic bag over the entire thing, and no spark plugs in the holes, or intake or Exh fitted. Conditions are clean and dry and the temperature is fairly constant.

On the first of each month, I add approx 1 oz of synthetic oil to each of the spark plug holes and a shot on the Intake and ex valves. I take a look at the index pointer on the crank hub/balancer and then turn the front balancer over by hand two complete turns and then go 120 degrees more noting where the index pointer stops. I figured that turns the entire motor over through one complete cycle and then the addional 120 degree turn puts a different cylinder at the TDC position each month- to exercise the valve springs a bit and have a different set of springs held in the open position each time.

I've been doing this for about 2 years now...

Thanks for the info guys.

Doug,
So wateryouwaitinfor? Must be something special!
john

Hey John,

That M635 motor that is "on the stand" was destined for my '73 BMW 3.0 CS/CSL track car project... However, I decided to install a euro 3.5 liter "L" block "big six" motor in the "coupe" instead. The L Block is cranking out 298 HP on at the flywheel.. Not to shabby for an old "lump"...

No

Do you do PBOC?

What do you guys use to lube the relief pistons? I would be concerned about these seizing if the motor was going to sit for a few months (as mine will).

If its going to set a while, use Red Line Assembly Lube. If its going to set for over a year, get it started and running for 1/2 hour, then just turn it over a couple times a month, keep clean. Change oil before starting after a year of sitting.

I have torn down an engine, that was rebuilt, never started, for over a year. Everything is drying up and no good.