Case Sealed - How easily should crank turn??

Dadofour · Dadofour's Garage

We sealed up the case this evening.

Once complete, I wanted to turn the crank to see that it still could move freely, and it does not.

We put two old flywheel bolts in and used a screwdriver to rotate the crank, and I guess it takes 30 ft-lbs to rotate the crank.

Before I move on, I wanted feedback on whether I should crack it back open or continue on.

This is my first rebuild so I have no guage other than intuition, and that is saying the crank should turn easier.

Thanks

sand_man · 12-23-2005, 05:29 PM

Are the timing chains perhaps binding? Might be sort of awkward turning the crank with the chains dangling.

sand_man · 12-23-2005, 05:42 PM

Also, is the manor in which you are attempting to turn the crank (screw driver wedged between two flywheel bolts), maybe not the best way to apply leverage? Maybe attaching the front pulley bolt would be better?

Dadofour · Dadofour's Garage

The chains are not binding.

I will try the bolt up front.

Any feel for how easily the crank should turn?

Jeff Alton · 12-23-2005, 06:10 PM

I am not sure it even takes 30 lb/ft on the front pulley bolt to rotate an engine that is assembled with out any spark plugs in it....

Cheers

Alan Cottrill · Alan Cottrill's Garage

assuming you haven't installed the pistons/cylinders yet, you should be able to turn the crank by pushing and pulling on the rods. it should be that easy

sand_man · 12-23-2005, 06:14 PM

I don't know how to communicate it other than it should turn freely...it's a smooth feel.

Dadofour · Dadofour's Garage

Quote:

assuming you haven't installed the pistons/cylinders yet, you should be able to turn the crank by pushing and pulling on the rods. it should be that easy

The rods cannot be pushed to move the crank. I will wait for a few more responses, but I am inclined to crack the case.

Thanks

sand_man · 12-23-2005, 06:42 PM

I feel for ya, but I think there's a problem. Is all of the case hardware tight? Anything look strange with case sealer "squeeze-out"...i.e are some areas sqeezing out heavier than others?

sand_man · 12-23-2005, 06:46 PM

Any trouble getting the number eight nose bearing in it's dowel pin?

Eagledriver · 12-23-2005, 07:13 PM

Sounds like something is wrong. I assume you have oil or assembly lube on the bearings. Possible reasons: Warped case, bent crank, wrong size bearings, binding gears on the crank/intermediate shaft, binding oil pump. Hope you find something simple.

-Andy

stevepaa · 12-23-2005, 07:33 PM

Sounds like you do not have the pistons installed and you are trying to rotate the crank to check it. Well, if the rods are not held correctly the the big ends will contact the inner parts of the case and you'll stop. Best to get at least two people to hold the rods ends while you try to rotate.

So if the rod ends are not binding and you can rotate 180 degrees but it takes a lot of force, then something is amiss.

Dadofour · Dadofour's Garage

Problem solved.

I cracked the case. Once a number of the nuts were loosened the crank began to turn. Once the case was in half we found the problem.

A single washer was left between the webs of the last bearing journal before the number eight.

It is not a oil passageway. I must have torqued the case enough to cause binding.

All of the bearings are out. The oil pump assembly is out. The crank is out and the case is clean of sealant. I will let it sit until after Christmas, and then probably try it again.

Thanks for the help. At least I now know how it SHOULD NOT feel.

I look forward to a more positive post in a few days.

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

Good catch!

-Wayne