Look at the pics & tell me where the oil is from-Part II

[don hopkins]

The first pic below is the right chainbox. The second is the left chainbox. Does one look like a possible source of an oil leak? Which one?

[safe]

I have a simular leak as on the first picture.
I belive that is a leak either between chain housing and case or the camshaft seal in the camtower.
Most likely the later.

[don hopkins]

What do you mean by camshaft seal? Do you mean the seal between the camtower and heads?

[ischmitz]

Don, There is a radial seal between the cam housing and the cam tower. The cams a reaching into the cam housings where they are driven. It's a paper gasket (29) and an O-ring (30). The O-ring is a common leak. To fix this you need to open the cam housings and remove the chain tensioners and the cam sprockets. Then you take off (31). It requires timing the engine after re-assembly. There are a some special tools required. Depending on the year of the engine you need a crowfoot, a cam sprocket holder, and a dial gauge with Z-block to properly time the engine. The work could be done with a partial engine drop but usually its much easier to drop the engine. It would give you a chance to replace some other notorious gaskets at the oil cooler, the oil pressure sender and the oil breather at the same time.



Cheers,
Ingo

[don hopkins]

Hey Ingo,
Thanks alot. This really helps. Where is the drawing from?

Regards, Don

[ischmitz]

Don,

It's from PET: Porsche Electronic Parts Catalogue. I highly recomend Wayne's engine rebuilding book. It has tons of pictures to clarify this and will talk you through the process of doing this yourself.

Cheers,
Ingo

[safe]

Don, if you got Waynes rebuild book its all in there. I replaced these seals on my left cam. Lots of work, thats the only thing you are doing.

You dont have the enging in the car, right? If you have I would get some of that UV-stuff to be sure that it leaks.

[don hopkins]

Oh yes. The engine is out. What UV stuff?

[safe]

That oil additive that JohnJL talked about in your previous thread:

"The definitive way to tell is to pour in some UV oil additive, drive it around, and get under there with a black light. You can usually find some from better auto stores (through they are getting fewer and fewer)"


Were you dropping the engine just to fix this oil leaks or are you doing more stuff?

[don hopkins]

Thanks. Just to fix the oil leak but I am tempted to do more.

[ischmitz]

Originally posted by don hopkins
Thanks. Just to fix the oil leak but I am tempted to do more.

Well, since you already working around the cam area you migth think of upgrading to a hotter cam. That is relatively cheap. A regrind to 964 spec. is around 300$. Anything more (compression, displacement, head work) would require a complete tear-down and that is a slippery slope to say the least

Cheers,
Ingo

[don hopkins]

I thought an S cam is considered hot already?

[safe]

You had a MFI-engine (saw an MFI belt in a picture), right?

Your profile don't say what car you have, that always help/ reduce confusion when asking questions.

[don hopkins]

Yes. MFI.

[ischmitz]

Oh, I was assuming a CIS engine. Sorry for the confusion.