chain sprocket holder & clamping tool?
 

When I was collecting the tools and parts to do a rebuild/refreshening I bought 2 tools that I do not know how to use and are not demonstrated in Wayne's book. These are the "chain sprocket holder" and the "chain tensioner clamping tool." Can somebody tell me how these are used?

In Wayne's Engine Building book, look at page 158 figure 6-8 to see how the cam sprocket tool is used.

The year of your engine will determine which cam sprocket tool(s) you would use. Post 1980 engines have a cam bolt. Pre-1980 engines have a large cam nut that requires a 46mm crows foot in addition to the cam holder.

Attached is a picture of the 2 tools I am talking about. Thanks.

donhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141316238.jpg

The one on the bottom - the chain clamp - is what I was picturing from your original post. I know how it works, but didn't know how to describe it to you...that's why I didn't comment on it. As for the other thing...I have no idea. I didn't buy that one. Disregard my other posts then...I thought your speaking about the cam sprocket holder. Unless that upper tool works like a mechanical/solid tensioner to create chain tension for setting the cam timing...?????

Both of these are sold by Pelican so somebody must know.....

The lower is used to hold the tensioner in a compressed position so you can install it.
Compress the tensioner SLOWLY in a vice and slide the clamp over it...
I don't think you need it for the carrera tensioner, only the older.

Used neither of them... although the clamp would have made my life a little easier ;)

I used a C-clamp to keep my chains tight instead of the other tool in your picture.

Don,
You can also compress the tensioner in a vise and hold the center part with a nail. After installing the tensioner, pull the nail and the rod is pushed out by the internal spring against the sprocket arm.

The other doodad is installed in place of the tensioner and then adjusted to get the chain good and tight for setting the timing.

So you are getting it back together now?

That only works for the carrera tensioners, not the older early 911, 930 type.

This setup worked like a champ!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141369524.jpg

I think you'll like this picture much better...?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141369945.jpg

Here's another method I use that I haven't seen anyone else post. These are simple turnbuckle "tools" found at most any well-stocked hardware store:

Right side:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141872375.jpg

And left side:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141872425.jpg

The left side also includes the tool shown in the first posters photo.

Another method using the Turn Buckles:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=225472&highlight=Cam+ti ming+and+chain+tension

Tensioning chain for cam timing
 

Sand-man,

I never cease to be amazed at the different ways there can be to do the same job! I forgot to mention in my previous post that I only used the turnbuckles shown in the photos as a temporary holder to remove the mechanical tensioners I use to set the cam timing (photo below), and replace them with the actual tensioners.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1141919878.jpg
I'm not sure I'd want to put the needed tension in the chain with just the turnbuckles I use to do the tensioner swap, although they may also work just fine for setting the cam timing.

Thanks for the picture. Now I know how these work. Anybody got a picture of the C clamp being used? Also, is it OK for me to skip the sprocket alignment step if I put back the same number of shims?

I've heard this question asked several times before and the best answer I've heard is another question...... "How do you know the person who did it the last time did it right?" If you don't know who did it before, there will always be some doubt as to whether it was right.

You are right of course but it was probably done right unless the person was a raving idiot.

Well, you're certainly free to pursue whatever course you like, Don, it's your engine, but it doesn't take a raving idiot to make mistakes and miscalculations with these engines. And you did ask the question. Jerry Woods was the person who gave the answer the last time I heard the question asked. Always stuck with me.

C clamp method on my 3.2l.... Lou

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142200271.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142200284.jpg

I guess I don't see how it would be out of alignment if the person kept the same number of shims as he took off. Its just that getting the cam nut off has been the hardest part of the partial rebuild I am doing. To make the alignment you have to, according to Wayne, tighten the nut up to torque (110 ft lbs) and then take it off. I don't know if I have the strength to do it again.

Don,

I understand your frustration. The point was, yes you can put it back like it was when you took it apart. No argument there. It's just that you are putting your trust in whoever did the cam sprocket alignment before you took it apart, that's all. The cam sprocket alignment does not require you to tighten the cam nut to 110 ft-lbs. You are not going to get the alignment any closer by torquing the nut to this figure. The alignment is only required to be within the thickness of one shim spacer, and torquing the cam nut to 110 ft-lbs is not going to improve the alignment tolerances.

I don't have Wayne's book, but I'll bet the torquing is called out when doing the cam timing. You do the alignment before you do the timing. You can slip the sprocket hardware on the cam without the square key in the shaft in doing all this, then when the spacers have been determined, pull the hardware off and install the key in the keyway. Then go about the timing, which is a much more exacting setup than the alignment.