How far should i squirt??
 

Hi guys, this is a call for help. I read the thread of Hobieboy and Chris Bennet on Piston squirters. Thanks to Chris for an excellent article. To the chase, I have an 82 SC case. I cleaned the squirters using 1972_911Ts method (syringe). I found that 1,2,3 opened after soaking in penetrating oil and then blasting ethanol through (yeah i know, what a waste). Those guys really do squirt a mist with pressure. I got some black gunge out. On 4,5,6 these guys were clean. But here is the problem, it doesn't take any pressure to blow ethanol through them, it just dribbles through before i apply pressure. When i apply pressure they flow faster, but i wouldn't exactly call it squirting. Also i can suck air BACKWARDs through them. It seems like the are just permentley open, any ideas...
appreaciate the help.
Brett

don't sound right. the squirters have a small ball bearing in them held under load by a spring. the oil pushes the ball bearing into the squirter body allowing oil to pass through and out of the small hole at the other end, giving you a fine srpay of oil. to get fluid running through the other way would say to me that they are knackered and need replacing. if you need some let me know, I have six 993 squirters that make for a good upgrade (depending on what you are building)

Sounds like time to replace them... apparently the check ball and seat or the spring may have a problem.

If you leave them alone your oil pressure at idle/low RPM will be even lower (not good).

Which type you replace them with needs to go hand in hand with the oil pump you are using (IMO).

If you search around you will find in one of these threads the factory manual removal instruction.

Good luck
Scott

squirt squirt squirt
 

Hi Andy, appreciate the input. I have got "The Fear" as far as tackling the squirters myself. Have you done any? Will i need the over size ones? Why are you selling the 993s.

By the way i was born in Erith and lived and worked in the big smoke for ten years. Been over here in Chucktown for nearly four years. Best thing here is no MOT, no testing of any kind. Most days i run open exhaust,
slater
B

oil pump squirter matching
 

Hi Scott, thanks for the tip. I plan to use 964 pump, any ideas which squirters to use,
cheers
B

I would use the 964 squirters with the 964 pump... The 930 and 993 may be the same can't remember.
I might work on my squirters this weekend, if I find a better way to remove them I'll let you know. For starters though I'll go with the factory instruction.
If you dive in, remember that a Tap is quite brittle, be careful to pull straight away on it because if you break the tap It'll take a good machinist to remove it...

Are you sure you have properly blocked the main oil passage on the right side case?

right side
 

Hi Hobie, I thought i had blocked that oil passage in the through bolt holes. Why else would solvent come out of the squirter when i push it into the main journal?? Also i can suck air back into the squirter using the same technique,
I imagine the springs are tired??
cheers
Brett

over-size squirters
 

Hey Scott, are the oversize squirters available in case of damage to the case when extracting the old ones? which are you planning to use?
cheers
Brett

Is it possible that the balls are gunked up in the open position? Is it worth to use some PB blaster before you commit to change them? Have you tried using a needle to coerce the ball out of retirement? Not much to loose if you are going to replace them any way... BTW, I just cleaned my squirters yesterday on my 3.0 Euro. Ended up using a phillips head with some masking tape. Size was not critical, just eyeball it. I was able to rock the screwdriver to close hole and force air out in squirters. Lou

Brett, I have pulled my squirters-bit of a scary one but once I sussed the first couple it was fine. i got myself a slide hammer and screwed a wood screw in the squirter hole. gave the slide hammer a couple of good pulls and bingo! cleaned everything up and then £ucked up putting the new ones in! so i had to get my hands on the oversize ones and drill the case (now that was scary) thats how I have the six standard ones.
installing required a drop of loctite (not too much or you may block things up) and then once they are in just burr the edge up with a punch in half a dozen places round the squirter. this is all a little vauge as i did it quite a while back but like the others said there are some full details in other threads and the factory install details that i posted too. let me know if you need he squirters and we'll do a deal!

If you read Chris' post carefully, you'll notice that there is a "separate" passage to the squirters on the right side case. If you are not spraying right into this passage you will not have a good spray out of the squirters.

Took me a while to get the feel but if you insert the rubber tube in carefully you'll feel this other opening inside the passage. It has a little kink to it.

squirt squirt squirt
 

Hi All, RHS piston squirter success to report. As Lou suggested i manipulated my balls (ooh err missus) with a 21 gauge (Green) needle from the piston squirting opening side. Then i pushed some SAE 30 heavy duty oil through from the main bearing web using the syringe method- yet more black particles emerged. Number 4 was still not working, so i soaked in penetrating oil overnight and gave it the needle treatment again. Success, now it holds pressure, squirts a stream and won't suck air backwards.

These squirters appear to have 2 failure modes, stuck shut and stuck open...

thanks all
Brett

cool

Just an FYI

Removed my old oil jets last weekend...

1. Using a small carbide (my dentist's throw away used burr's) I removed some of the staked material that keeps the jet from falling out.

2. Drilled a small hole and as suggested here, screwed in a slide hammer with an appropriately sized wood screw and removed them no problem...

Scott