3.6 chain rail pin insertion - please help!
 

The big pin thingy isn't going into the chain ramp hole because of the little spring-loaded titty thingy (in the chain ramp hole) that eventually seats in the groove of the big pin thingy. Do I just tap it in with a mallet? It is not going in with hand pressure. Thank you!!!

-Chance

another lesson the hard way
 

OK, so with new 964 chain ramps the spring-loaded keeper thingy in the case-side hole is much more protruding than in the old ramps. Here's what you do:

1. Using 3-in-1 or some lightweight oil and a small screwdriver or something, exercise the keeper a few times to get it lubed up.

2. With the ramp still on the bench, insert the bolt and hammer it in and remove it a couple of times. The keeper will end up being a bit less protruding than before - don't sweat it - it's exactly how the old ramp's keepers look.

3. Put the ramp into the case and insert the bolt using hand pressure.

4. DO NOT hammer the bolt in with the ramp in the case. The last flange of the bolt will catch the edge of the hole in the case, and you will have pieces of aluminum between the bolt and ramp hole, in the case, etc. Pull the bolt out after hammering an you will see the bits. You will spend the next hour with a flashlight and Q-tips getting that aluminum out. I pray to God I got it all out.

5. When removing the plastic hats from the roll pin on the straight ramps, DO NOT pry them off. They will snap like the flimsy P.O.S. that they are (now I'm on a desperate hunt to find them - they have no part number). Take a punch or 6mm allen tool and punch out the roll pin through the hole in the hat. Make sure the bottom hat will not contact the edge of the table on it's way down - that will snap it as well. I managed to break 2 of those stupid, stupid things.

-Chance

found the part number
 

The little plastic hats do in fact have a part number they just aren't where you might think - they are in illustration 103-05 (chain case) and are part# 964-105-110-01 (bearing). Just got 4 new ones ordered from Porsche - $6 each.

Screw sponsors for my race car - I need a sponsor for my p-car!!!

Wayne, can we get some free parts if we plaster www.pelicanparts.com on a nice-looking Porsche??? ;-)

I'm having a hard time picturing what you're talking about (and I've rebuilt a 964 motor). Do you have some pictures?
-Chris

I'll take some tonight when I get home and post them - it IS pretty hard to describe. Very important if you decide to install new ramps, though.

results
 

I took pictures the other night but haven't had time to download them from the camera yet - will do that in the next couple of days. I've had my hands full with another problem - and hopefully others can learn from my mistake.

Do NOT use master link chains with 964s (and possibly newer motors, not sure, check the chain ramp design).

I opted for the master link chains because I thought it would be more convenient to put them on when I'm ready to use them, and not have them flopping around during case assembly and other stuff. Whatever convenience that may have afforded is more than outweighed by the following:

The 964 chain ramps (4 very long ones, 2 are straight and 2 are curved) have raised rails, or sidewalls, on the outside edges. Presumably this is to help control lateral slop on the chain while it's moving. Well, when you tension up the chain and turn the crank, the little "E-clips" that hold the master link on rub against that rail and POP! off they come. Talk about a sick, sinking feeling in my stomach!

After much internal debate, I took the ramps off and razor-bladed the rear-ward rails (which contact the E-clips) off of the ramps. No more danger of the E-clips coming off. Yes, I sacrificed 50% of the total sideways-slop-control characteristics, but I can live with that when I compare these ramps to the tensioner sprocket and tiny little rail-less ramp in pre-964 motors. Less than ideal, but not unacceptable in my book. If I had it all to do over again, I'd forget all about using a master link chain. Might still be a valid choice for pre-964, but not in the 964.

-Chance

Here are some shots that might make it clearer. I did a complete rebuild of my 993 so I replaced the chains and did not have any links. I had to insert/remove the pin a few times on the new ramps to get them to seat properly...one especially kept hanging up and was a pain. After taking the ramp out and inserting/removing the pin about a thousand times it became easier and then "clicked" in when I pushed the pin while putting the ramps in the block. Its important to get the "click" since it means the ramps are running on the indents of the pin, otherwise the ramps can jam up and be really stiff. They are also not aligned properly if they are not on the indents...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144981548.jpg

Here is the pin in the ramp...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144981388.jpg

And the final position of the pin..
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144981625.jpg

I agree wholeheartedly the pins are pain to remove and the sides are easy to break off to boot.

Cheers,

Mike