I searched all over for decent wiring in various colors, and couldn't find any locally, until I wandered into a Marine Supply store. I'm not sure where you are located, but if they have boats, you might check them out.

I've bought some wiring from a marine supply like the ground wire from the alternator to the engine. I just ordered all the wires for the harness I need from Eagle Day. They had all the different colors except for a Gray/Brown. They also had the right angle blade connectors and some bullet connectors that look like they'll work for the back-up switch.

Now if I could find the rubber pieces for the engine harness, I won't have to tear up my stock harness. I can't find them in the PET. If someone knows the part numbers for them, I'd really appreciate the help.

Wiring supplies
 

My primary business is farm equipment; however, we have and/or have available quite a selection of wire (colors, gauge, even the newer wire with numbers embossed on the jacket...multi colors and numbers on one roll), as well as AMP, Packard, ITT Cannon, and Deutsch terminals and male/female connectors of various shapes and numbers of wires. Also have the correct tools to crimp on the various terminals. Custom make battery cables to length and gauge as well. Don't want to hijack a thread, but if I can help a fellow Pelicanite, let me know.

Dixon

How about the aluminum mil spec bulk head connectors. Say 41 pin?

I've got an $80 MSD crimper with interchangable jaws that I've been using. As I'm getting closer to the big EFI harness, I'm wondering if I'd get a much better result with $300 DTM Deutsch crimpers. Anyone have experience with both?

Sounds like alot of money for a crimper.

A good crimper is worth a lot. The best machine crimp will be gas tight, utilize the fitting's strain relief feature and look factory. A few hundred bucks if you are going for concours is worth it. There is nothing worse than cheapo US connectors with the plastic barrels, crimped by a cheapo radio shack crimper. It's like an automatic warning sign saying "danger, electrical gremlins ahead."

The whole crimp v. solder debate has been waged mightily both here and on the Aeroelectric list. I only crimp anymore, and insulate with heatshrink tubing or german rubber, looks just like the original. The brass connectors, both straight and flag type fastons, are the ones to get, they are pricey from eagleday but for a $50,000 restoration it's immaterial. For headlights and turn signals that work with no issues, and an engine that starts, runs and charges the battery, the expense is similarly insignificant compared to the alternative.

I was pointed towards Gene at YnZ by Scott at Scott's Independent Porsche, Anaheim, CA as a pro harness maker for older models.

Gene told me that a Generating/Starting harness cost approx $289 w/ 8-10 wk leadtime, Job starts by sending him the car harness (up to 14 pin connector) so he can quote. Here's address:

YnZ
333 E Stuart Ave Unit A
Redlands, CA 92374
(909) 798-1498

That price sounds really good but the lead time is more than I'd like. Maybe if I knew about it 8 weeks ago. Oh well.

Anyone have a trick for soldering the connectors that go into the 14 pin connector?

Got a tip on the 14 pin connector. DITCH IT and go with something else. I went with a 9 pin sealed rotary connector made by amp I believe it is. Du Vac electronics in pasadena had them. Think they have a website as well. Just cut, crimp and pop it in.

I decided to stick with the 14 pin connector since I already had it. The pins are actually pretty easy to solder once you get the hang of it. I probably will use a rotary bulk head connector for the ECU harness.

Here's a pic of the new harness. There will also be an ECU and CDI harness so this isn't all there is, but it's sure a lot less than before, almost a pound lighter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150544615.jpg

Here's what it's replacing, the stock 930 engine harness:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150544662.jpg

Looking good. Did you solder and heat shrink all the connections? What did you wrap with?

anyone know where to get the 6-pin CDI connectors and the trigger connecter for an SC dizzy? can't seem to find those...

I only soldered the connections in the 14 pin connector. The others are just crimped. All the electrical experts I've talked to say soldering will weaken the wires so they just use cripped connecters. The covering is just normal shrink tubing.

I think Protechnik in Houston has the connectors or knows where to get them. They've got a conversion harness to use an M&W CDI in place of the Bosch unit.

I made the engine harness for my car out of marine grade wire, and Weatherpak connectors. Used a 27 pin Weatherpak bulkhead protector.


The marine grade wire I found is copper tinned with silver.


This is the material used for the jacket


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150844263.jpg

You can see the 27 pin weatherpak connector

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150844306.jpg

crappy pic of the harness

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150844433.jpg

Very nice Tim.

I used marine wire for 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter. I couldn't get enough colors for the other ones.

Hi David - did everything work out for you?

Can anyone knowledgable help me list what each of these original leads is for on David's original 1978 harness pic (from above)? I want to make sure dont miss anything when I diagram my new harness for EFI (Tony Bitz' kit). Also would be good todocument it here for future use. My factory harness looks identical but I did a bad job of labeling it when I originally uninstalled it (over a year ago)! Thanks in advance.

So far I have this:

#7 (and to #1) (blue pin #11) - alternator
#11 (grey/brow pin# 6 and green/yellow pin #5): Back up switch
#17(and 7) (thick red pin #14): Starter/alternator
#18 (green/red - pin #4): Oil Pressure Sensor
#18 (green/black dots - pin #3): Oil Pressure Switch


Brian

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160938685.jpg

I believe #18 in the picture also goes to the starter.