Engine Rebuild - Mentors Needed Now and 4ever
 

So, I think I am now beginning to really get into rebuilding stuff as I have never rebuilt an engine before. However, after rebuilding my tranny, I thought I would pursue an engine rebuild.

I have Wayne's 2 books and the Hayne's manual. I read the rebuild book once already and I think I could do it. However, I know I would be asking advice on and off.

So, here is my engine:





I am waiting for the crowfoot arriving in 2 days. Been waiting for a week and waiting sucks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148538530.jpg

I have 3 broken studs like in the pic below. I have broken 2 sets of Craftsman stud-out kits. Must these be removed?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1148538609.jpg





This is a 3.0 engine with air injectors. Per a Sr. Member input, custom JEs SS configuration would be good. If I want to build a 3.2SS, would it be cheaper to find 3.2 heads. BTW, the main goal is to build a car which would be 75% street. The car is a '74 so I am smog exempt.

Any recommendations on machine shop(s)? Post or PM their names.

Thanks.

Yeah you want to have those out... They are responsible for holding the shroud down. Without those you'll lose a lot of air that would otherwise be cooling your engine.

Good luck!

Remove the awful air injection system. Looks like you have a '78-79 engine because of the port size. No need to switch to 3.2 heads or even port these...just run as-is, there is 280hp+ of air capable of flowing through them. Also, for a 3.2SS you'll need to chamfer the edge of the chamber in the heads, for the bigger pistons/cylinders (easy).

Either engine is still a GREAT engine, the 3.2SS being one of the best engines you could build (IMHO). I use Ollie's Porsche Machine in Santa Ana. Gud guys, gud work...

If you can still grab the broekn studs with a vice grips, spring for any oxy acetylene torch and heat the surrounding material up. You should be able to crank those suckers out. If you can't, it is time to send them off to a machine shop. Heat is your FRIEND in pulling these studs. Buying the proper torch will save you maching shop costs that would have bought you the torch in the first palce.

Oh yeah, you do need to pull them.

I had a blast tearing the engine and I believe the knowledge gained was worth the time expended.

However, in rereading Wayne's book, I think I made 1 screw-up in removing the rocker shaft. The nut cone washers were so rusted that they would not come off the shaft. This is after soaking them for 3 days. I was forced to push the shaft while the washers were intact. So, how much of a problem am I in?

I am planning on installing the those RSR seals at assembly so would that totally eliminate any possible leakage? Should I also use some sealant around the cone washers?

Also, some of the double-sided-threaded bolts (one end is threaded into the case or into the heads, the other end where the nut threads onto) have come off. I am assuming this is normal. What kit have you guys purchased? Any specific torque? Loc-tite required at assembly?

Thanks.

As far as the rockers, I've seen some nasty cam towers and they still sealed respectably enough. The RSR seals should be fine, also, since the cam towers are not brand-new, torque them a little more than stock (18 lb. ft?), say, ~24 lb-ft. This will ensure a tighter interference fit so they don't move and don't leak oil.

The "double-sided threaded bolts" you mention are the head studs. I like to use the plain, early 911 steel head studs if it is a street 3.0/3.2 or something that is not stressed like a race engine or turbo engine is. This is what I'd recommend to save some bucks. However, if you want, you can get ARP/Raceware/Supertec studs which are all fantastic...typically I use ARP on a more powerful application, perhaps like yours (if you do a wild 3.2SS, you should seriously think about it, though they are expensive). I have a set of steel head studs if you need 'em. Yes, you'll need some loctite to reinstall them.

Check to see what kind of head studs you have right now. Probably 12 steel on top, 12 dilavar on the bottom. Switch out the 12 dilavars for 12 steel, if that's the case.

Cheers

Scott,

Thanks for the feedback. I have checked the studs and I have a mixed bag. Most of them are magnetic and 3 are not. And the non-magnetic ones are randomly situated.

I have not checked the prices on the ARP/RaceWare, but would most likely switch all of them. By the way, I have not pulled them, and they are all mounted securely. My Snap-on neighbor was not available this weekend to buy the kit.

As for the double-threaded bolts, these are not the head studs; rather, they could be anything (such as the port studs, or the studs that hold the valve covers, etc.). I could ask the Snap-on guys also for such a tool, but I thought a specific model/brand is better suited for Porsche engines.).

Thanks.