Head stud tightening methods
 

I have searched this but couldn't find an answer. This is for a 3.2.
Factory manual says 11 ft-lb then 90 degrees, with no mention of reotorquing
Wayne's book and several posts say two stages, final tightening to 23.5, with re-torquing after a bit of running.
I followed the factory method - the nuts are considerably tighter than 23.5.
Also, there is no way to re-torque later with the tighten then 90 degree method. To the best of my knowledge, when bolts are tightened by a stretch method (which essentially the factory method accomplishes) there is no need for later re-torquing. Properly installed rod bolts would be an example.

So, what is the right thing to do?

A few people recommend re-torquing headstuds. The rest of us and the factory recommend not.

-Andy

I've always checked mine on new engines after a few hundred miles or so... Never had one that needed to be re-torqued...

Do you use a torque spec or the turnof-the-nut method for tightening at assembly? If the latter, what do you use as a spec to check later?