re. NICE CATCH - thanks...I'll take the credit along with the embarasment of also installing my right cam 180 out...easy to do after spending late night spinning things round and round and pulling pins in and out..yes amazong how well it ran...

Interesting?

Is there a way to tell if the cam is 180deg out, while the engine is in the car? the 4-5-6 cylinders on my 2.2 (with webers) don't seem to be firing correctly.

Header temps are low and if i pull a plug wire off one of the cylinders, nothing changes. #6 is the only one of the 3 that changes the idle if the plug wire is pulled off the plug while running.

Power seems to be okay

IIRC the valve clearences were adjusted fine? Wouldn't one notice the cam 180 out when the valves were adjusted?

Kerry

The one way I know is to bring #1 up on compression.
Do this by reading a compression gauge while rotating the engine CLOCKWISE. Stop at the Z1 mark when at #1 compression.
Remove the compression gauge and insert it into #4.
Number 4 should come up on compression THE VERY NEXT TIME you approach Z1 turning the engine CLOCKWISE. 360 degrees later.
In other words #1 fires then the crank turns 360 and #4 fires.
If they come up on compression at the same time, one of the cams is out 180 degrees.

My mistake, I was up way to late. But the diagnostic of checking if the exaust was hot told me right away, great idea!!

It runs like crazy now, insane fast (for me anyhow), I've never had a 911 that would do burnouts before.

Next is to drill out my jets to match my 34MM venturi. Anyone care to chime in on the right jet sizes for my Zeniths (OK I have Zeniths, they are rebuilt and really rock) Keep in mind 10:1 compression with a 2.5 L webcam 104/102.

Thanks again for everyones help.

The engine runs fine (at least as best I can tell). I don't have another 911 2.2 to compare to but it seems okay to me.


I don't think I did this but will check it this weekend. It's just funny how the two sides are so different in temps?

I will also have the wife rev the engine to about 2000rpm while I pull some plug wires. At idle there is very little if any change when I pull #4 and #5 wires off.

I guess I could put the IR temp gun away and then things would be back to normal LOL

Cheers and thanks

Kerry,
Your IR temp gun is great for checking things like non-functioning cylinders. I use mine when I'm working on my webers. Lots of good info.
Ronin has his engine wired to continuosly monitor exhaust gas temps, EGT's. He uses a system originally designed for use on airplane engines.
Perhaps, if he runs across this thread he can describe it further.

"At idle there is very little if any change when I pull #4 and #5 wires off."

Kerry,
Pull the plugs on cylinders 4 and 5. Could be fouled due to bad plug wires #4 and 5.

What were the results of the compression test? Performed yet? If the engine is basically healthy, the engine misfire is a relatively small detail to uncover.

Sherwood

I'll be doing the compression test tonight once I get home :)

The plug, #4, that I pulled was white'ish in color and not black.fouled looking at all.

Once I get some of the above tests done I will repost

Okay I had 125-130psi in one (no oil in cylinder) and 100psi in #5 (no oil)

I am now going to pull the valve covers off and check for a tight valve

Cheers

Turns out I think it was all CARB. blew out some jets and replaced the filter and I am getting header temps close to 350'ish at idle on all exhaust drops to the headers.

Sorry for the highjack

Thanks