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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 19
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Questions re: Engine rebuild
Hi Wayne ... have purchased your book and all parts from PP and am in the process of reassembly re: 2.2 (1970)
A couple of questions/clarifications - could not find these on the BB. 1) The 15mm bolt in the timing chain case - re: two case halves. Is this supposed to have a locking washer or washer under it??? 2) After putting the two halves of my case together, it says in your book to rotate the crankshaft - ... I am assuming back and forth ... tried to do a 360 and the back of the rod bolts bind on the inside of the case ... is this normal --- the back bolts hitting the case ... am assuming this is OK ... once the piston and cylinder are installed the rods will never drop enough to bind in the inside of the case ???? 3) Will install the cylinders ... in your book it states that the larger fins go down... just to double check ... does this mean ... the flatter part of the fins go up ??? Also debating about the tensioner upgrade .... do the old style tensioners need to be (re) primed ... if so do we do this the same manner as the carrera tensioners - i.e. remove the oil bolt and prime in container of oil ... my old tensioners are really solid (hard to compress) etc. etc. Thanks in advance. ...James |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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1) I believe that there is supposed to be a washer under there, but I'm not 100% sure. Either way, if there is one put in there, it's unlikely to hurt anything.
2) I'm sure you don't mean that the rod "bolts" themselves hit the case, but the rod ends. You can manuever the rod ends so that they don't hit, and do a 360 revolution... 3) Flatter part of the fins - not 100% sure what you mean, but there are larger (longer) fins on one side, and those point towards the ground (the exhaust side). No, the old-style tensioners don't need to be primed, but you should really upgrade to the Carrera tensioners, and the updated idler arms for full protection. -Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KENDAL,CUMBRIA, UK
Posts: 1,580
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HI the stud in the case requires a "wavy" washer under the nut, the old type tensioner (if you are putting them back) i would recommend striping and a repair kit fitting with fresh oil, as with any thing the oil inside is prob gash/worn out. tensioner kit part No 911 105 901 01
regards mike |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg, MB Canada
Posts: 221
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If you use elastic bands you can criss cross them through the rods and put them around the head studs. This keeps the rods centered and allows you to do rotations when required. Otherwise it takes about 3 people to hold all the rods straight.
(Also stops the rods from marking up the edge of the case spigots) Kirk
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1989 911 Carrera 4 (964) |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 19
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Thanks for the responses- - good idea with holding the rods up etc. -- a bit overcautious/paranoid with every little step. Hope to finish the complete resoration on my '70 sun roof, and drive it from Edmonton to California (hopefully next Sept.) for the Ventura meet etc.
thxs ...James |
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