Newbie has a lot of dumb questions
 

I've got my motor torn apart and I have more questions than answers so here goes.

I have an 3.2 with 4 broken head studs (now all removed) and receipts showing new piston and cylinders were installed 30,000 miles ago and they look to be in very good condition (still see the honing marks, no scratches).

Should I replace the rings and rehone the cylinders?
Do I need to clean the carbon off the pistons?
What machining if any should I do?
I do plan to tear apart the valves and check/replace the guides.
Do I need to balance anything?

I decided to do the bottom end since I don't show any records on when it was done last (car has 150,000 miles on it)

I also see in Wayne's book (after I ordered the parts and talked to the saleman) that he recommends Raceware rod bolts. The kit I ordered from Pelican has OEM rod bolts. I asked the saleman at Pelican about it and he said they the "updated" bolts?

I've got Wayne's book, but with my top end being done recently I'm wondering if everything is applicable to me.

Would pictures of the heads, P&C help any of you to determine how far I need to take this rebuild?

I'm really sorry for all the questions but this website and Wayne's books are the only reason I tried tacking this project myself.

Thanks
Brian

measuring the pistons and jugs will tell you how far to go. Chemtool will take the carbon off the tops of the pistons. Nylon brush only. Raceware of ARP rod bolts. Never heard of "updated ones"

i'm using the racewar headstuds and rod bolts...seem to be of the upmost quality.... supposidly good, if blanced, to something like 8500rpm !!!

Don't hone the cylinders. Just some Scotch Brite and soapy water.

Send the heads out to someplace like Atlantic Enterprises (unless you have a lathe jig setup to clean up the sealing surface).

Have your machine shop clean up the case spigot sealing surfaces ("deck" the spigots). The busted head studs may have allowed the cylinders to bounce up and down dinging up the cylinder ot case sealing surface.

The cylinders in these motors (3.2 w/Nicasil) barely wear at all. I think the first thing to "wear" is the piston's ring grooves. They get pounded wider.


-Chris

If your cylinders are only 30k miles old then I'd reuse everything including the rings. I'd remove the pistons to clean the carbon off and check the rings but you don't even really have to do that. If you do remove the pistons make sure to put everything back the way it cam out, same rings and same pistons in same cylinders. Don't mix anything up.

-Andy

Thanks for the information guys. I spent about 6 hours cleaning the parts yesterday, still have a lot left.

Here's the description from Pelican's superkits.

Engine Case Essentials Parts Super Kit 3.2L (1984-89), 911 Turbo 3.3 (1978-89), with OEM Rod Bolts and Nuts
PEL-REBKT-12N $821.00

Engine Case Essentials Parts Super Kit 3.2L (1984-89), 911 Turbo 3.3 (1978-89), with RaceWare Rod Bolts and Nuts
PEL-REBKT-12AN $993.40

I elected to go with the OEM bolts after talking about it with the salesman on the phone. He assured me the OEM bolts are fine for my application and not prone to failure.

Also I received an email from Pelican stating the OEM head studs are backordered with no ETA available. I waited 3 weeks for my cam wrench, I really don't want to wait again so I may have to upgrade to ARP or equivelant.

Any thoughts on the rod bolts or head studs? I am on a budget.

Here's a couple of pictures. Pretty obvious where the broken studs were.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159105418.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159105464.jpg

Replace the lower head studs with the 993 steel head studs. Porsche part #993.101.172.02, Pelican part # OEM-99310117202.
-Chris

I'm still concerned about the OEM rod bolts that I bought from Pelican. Anyone have any insight or know if these are OK to use? Can I assume if Pelican sells them they are OK?

yes, the rod bolts are fine for normal use

just don't rev past 6500 at any regular basis. if i remember correctly they are rated/safe to 6800rpm. but you never want to run something that close to its limit.

for a street engine 6800rpm would be a rare event, and i am also sure there is some saftey factor built into their ratings.

but the rev limit on these engine is determined by the decimal place of the balancing, the rod bolts and the head studs... in that order i believe.