Poll: How to install Rocker Arm Shafts?
 

There are a few alternatives concerning rocker arm/ shaft installation. One may choose to use RSR seals or not, but my question is simple; Did you use engine assembly lube on the shaft?

I decided to try the dry method this time. I squirted oil into the holes on the rockers after assembly to lubricate them for the start up. So far so good.

-Andy

I used the RSR seals lubed with Dow Corning 111 and assembly lube on the rocker arm. Torqued to 16-18ft lbs. I read about the different ways of doing this and was the most comfortable this way. Also put drops of oil in the oil holes on the rocker arm after installed. Right or wrong? Not sure, but seems to have worked fine so far, No leaks.

Hi Andy, how many miles so far?

Michael, how did you prevent assembly lube being carried with the shaft from the rocker into the cam box?

easy

I wasn't able to. I only put a very thin film on the inside of the rocker. No lube on the shaft itself, so assembly lube would only get on one side of the cam tower. Also the DC 111 on the RSR seals so I'm sure some of that was on the bore of the cam tower, but that is considered a sealant. I had to remove two of the shafts since I didn't get the RSR seals on two of the shafts. They came out fine and were tight after reassembly. I wasn't comfortable with the dry method when everyone recommends assembly lube for everything else.

if they're dry, they tend to get a better grip in the bore and are less likely to turn as you tighten the 5mm end. not that that means a whole lot. tight is tight.

I used assembly lube inside the rocker and on it's sides. Coated the shaft and other parts with engine oil. Used finger to coat inside of rocker shaft housings with engine oil. All twelve tightened without incident.

Dry, dry, dry and then use RSR seals while wearing a piece of garlic around my neck to ward off the Leak Demons. ;)
-Chris

To answer the earlier question, my engine has about 1500 miles on it 90 percent on the track.

-Andy

Like any good torqued fastner, lube the threads and the conical ends, then torque them to spec. I use ARP moly (same as for the head nuts) which will ensure proper torque. Since I've been doing this, the shaft has not moved and no leaks.