3.2 valve leak

dfink · 11-17-2006, 05:44 AM

Well a couple of questions for those curious this all started with a simple engine pull for routine maintenance. See what happened here

link to what started this

Anyhow the engine is just about to the long block stage still have to remove the exhaust. But have to get an engine stand first. The top is off except for a couple of pieces like the temp sensor.
Anyhow so far only one casualty as far as bolts go. Left front little 6mm bolt that holds the plastic air plenum snapped off. flush with the base. First question is should I drill it out now with the engine mostly closed. Should I wait and drill it out after the cam tower and heads are off or should I just leave it alone. I am not sure I like option 3.
Second question and more to the rebuild side of thinks. The only problem that I was having as far as symptoms was a little smoke on start up. I assume worn valve guides and hard seals. When testing I found air blowing by the exhaust on #2 and #4. I don't plan on re-ringing or splitting the case. I really just want the valve to stop leaking but realistically it is probably time to have the heads re-done since it is all apart. Man still haven't made it to the question. After pulling the head / cam tower assembly can I just secure the cylinders with spacers and nuts and leave them alone. I have the engine rebuild book that says to do this while removing opposite sides of the engine but doesn't really give stopping points for partial rebuilds. It doesn't make sense to me to pull the cylinders and pistons. Engine has around 80K miles on it. It may depend on what I see after removing the heads but at this point don't want to go any deeper than need be. Also If not splitting the case is there any reason to remove items such as oil pressure switch and other small items that aren't associated with splitting the case.

cgarr · cgarr's Garage

I don’t think there is anything more that has to come off except the heads for a head job

john walker's workshop · 11-17-2006, 07:13 AM

set the engine to #1 TDC and leave it there. no need to secure the cylinders unless you want to turn the crank for some reason.

Jeff Alton · 11-17-2006, 08:21 AM

John, would you be worried at all about he cylinder base seal leaking after being disturbed? I have always wondered about this?

Cheers

dfink · 11-17-2006, 08:30 AM

Thanks I will just take off what I need to get the heads off then. I will replace the crankcase breather gasket while I am there but the presure sensor was just replaced. I think I will hold off on drilling out the broken bolt until the engine is apart. Less chance of getting something in the engine since I don't want to take it apart...
I guess I could leave one bolt off the plastic shroud but it would bug me knowing it was missing.
Next question is about takeing the cam bolt off. I assume that I have the newer style with a 19mm bolt. The book says you must have the tool to remove this but can you just blip it off with the impact for removal. I can see the tool for install but is there a way to remove without the tool. I hate to wait a week just to get a tool. Are the any adjustable pin wrenchs that might work. Any ideas.