Must be some sort of record...48 head studs in 6 hours!
 

Man those things are a pain, but I got all the studs off of my two engine cases. One is my used 3.0 case, the other is my brand new '84 case, both of which had half dilavar and half steel studs. The 3.0 had 5 broken studs to contend with.....

Anyway, keys to the kingdom are:

1. Use the Snap On stud remover as per Wayne's book
2. Use an impact wrench, reverse directions, starting with driving the stud further **in** and then reversing to attempt taking it out. Reverse frequently, keep hammering at it, about 50% will eventually come out.
3. If the impact wrench fails, take your 1 1/8 inch wrench that fits the Snap On tool and reef on it, remembering to support the wrench/remover so that you do not bend the stud. Surprisingly, several of the studs will respond to a steady torque but not respond to the impact wrench.....about 25%.
4. Then it is heat, lots of heat. I used my propane torch and my heat gun simultaneously...one on each side. Gave it at least 5 minutes, closer to 10 is better. Make sure that you leave the Snap On remover in place, ready to go. Impact wrench seemed to take them out once the loctite bond was softened.
5. Broken ones, not too bad. Ground flats on them, put a large vice grip on the flats and then a crescent wrench to turn the vice grips. I always used heat for broken ones.

Noticed a few things. Dilavar did not seem to be as hard to take out as steel. Seemed like the loctite holds steel better.....

Also, once you get it moving a little bit, you need to keep hammering on it, once you stop it moving, the loctite seems to reset and then you are likely stuck with using heat.

Glad its done though!

Dennis

Oh yeah, other than the studs that were already broken, I did not break any whilst removing them....

Thanks for the info I will be tackling the same project in the upcoming weeks.

48? You're a madman... :D

Nice work, you got it, lots of heat (not too hot!) and patience...

I would add that a pipe wrench can work wonders on stubborn studs that you do not plan to re-use...

You're a real glutton for punishment...:)

I'd rather spend $50 for the machine shop to remove them since they have the other parts for servicing anyway and use those 6 hours for beer drinking...:)

Ralph

"I'd rather spend $50 for the machine shop to remove them...:


Yeah, but here in the Great White North there is not many places that I would trust with the job....plus they sure the heck wouldn't do it for $50!!!

As for the heat, it is supposed to go down to -32C tonight, complete with snow....the torch and heat gun were part of the home heating plan...


Dennis

2nd vote for the pipe wrench on studs your not going to reuse. All of mine came out without any issues at all.

I was amazed

hrmnnn.... took me 20 minutes for one case half on my '83 3.0 w/ a broken stud. Used a 2 ft. breaker bar w/ a cam stud remover I got in an $8 kit from the local auto store... (said it wont destroy threads... don't believe it) Put about 3 minutes of heat on the inside of the case while keeping constant force on the breaker bar. Easy. Once they start turning remove heat and continue constant force.

Clean holes by slicing an old stud and chasing the threads...

-michael