Cheap engine stand adapter - any good?
 

Has anyone tried on of these? Pretty cheap alternative to the $130 one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-PORSCHE-ENGINE-STAND-BENCH-OR-FLOOR-Made-in-USA_W0QQitemZ180068114458QQihZ008QQcategoryZ43998Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

They might be OK for something lighter than a 911 motor - like a 911 transmission perhaps. The factory style yoke supports the motor at more points than just the bolt holes. The latest yokes have 5 arms instead of 4 - for a reason I assume.
-Chris

The smart answer that's been said on here in the past is:

Do you really want to risk a $10k engine to save $50? The 6 cyl isn't all that much lighter than a SBC. I spent the money as I expect most here finally did.

HI the engine stand in the ADD is OK for a 356/VW engine, I would not use it on a 6CYL engine, you require one like this!!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167770809.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1167770845.jpg
now do not be silly and ask me for one, or where you can get one from as it will cost Tooo much to send to the USA, and you are on $2 to the£1 well nearly. unless you have some one with a suitcase??

regards mike

Don't do it, these engines costs way too much already. The last thing you need is to drop it. Ask around, maybe someone will be selling theirs.

Good luck,

alex

I bit the bullet and bought one of the expensive ones from Pelican.

After wrestling the 500lb+ motor onto my bench, I'm still amazed, tho, that its ok to support it by just two studs - even with the proper mounting flange. I suppose that once the flange is tightened down, the load is distributed across the entire flange, but even that is only mounted to 1/2 the case.

Now the fun begins.

Thanks.

Geoff

If the clutch assembly is removed you can use the head that normally comes with all engine stands. You need to cut down 2 of the legs and re-drill. I've had 530 pound 930 engines on it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168134211.jpg

Not on a mag cased motor you won't. You are just asking for stripped threads. I still believe you are putting yourself in the hands of fate on an aluminum motor using this kind of fixture.

I bought one of those from that guy, with the bench mount. It is a little wimpy, but it cost next to nothing, his service was great, and it DID work. it's a little hard to rotate the engine compared to the really nice ones, but I know for sure it will work with a complete 6 cyl. The metal didn't distort in any way like it would just before breaking.
My conclusion- it will work for a few engines, but probably not for dozens or hundreds.
Don't let your kids play underneath the engine though.

If you don't trust my design don't use it.
I've used it for years on 500+ pound 930 engines. I've got a motor on it right now. You can't be stupid about it, you have to support the contact points properly and torque the bolts all the same.
It's just another idea for others to consider. If you're scared of it or lack the knowledge and/or confidence to set it up correctly then by all means do not use it for engines. I would be hard pressed though to say it's not a viable alternative for mounting and working on transaxles.

Brian's right; treat it with respect on an aluminum motor and you should be fine. If you get scared, support a fully loaded motor with a 2x4. Considering how many motors most of us will build, does it matter?

The Porsche-specific stands allow you to support 1/2 of the engine safely and securely - the other stands don't.

-Wayne

If its bolted well to the engine the whole unit becomes one, that’s the key, the attachment to the engine. You should see the thin tubing that’s holds the engine on the front of my airplane! and were are talking a whole lot more weight than any porsche engine

Wayne is correct about the stock engine stand head not being optimal for supporting a split case. You would need to add a half moon to the assembly if you wish to rotate a loaded engine using only 2 attachment points.
What I have done is use all 4 attachment point on the complete engine. Strip it down to the case and then remove the attaced bolts on one side of the case. At that point the engine doesn't weigh so much and you can split the case. I also always use a 2x4 or 4x4 to support the opposite end of the case because my stand has 3 legs and is not as steady as a 4 leg stand.
Again, if this makes you nervous do not do it.

I put a comealong from the engine to the rafters at first, and I used it again when I was torqueing the heads & cam nuts, just to be sure.

I also use my old faithful engine stand like Rarly L8 does, I cut a small notch on the end of all of the arms where they meet the case, and I use the two studs, and two more bolts for mounting. I also can hold only one side of the case to allow for crank installation etc... I have used this setup for years with no problems. I will support the front of the case with a 2x4 when holding only one case half , just for that little extra saftey margin, or once I have all of the accessories on . Good luck !!!!!!