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Engine apart, looking at P&C's - what are my options?
Well, I ripped into the engine of the '82SC I bought a couple weeks ago. Although I've rebuilt a few motorcycle engines, I've never done a 911 engine before. So, with Wayne's books by my side, I started tearing it down. Although the engine was filthy, it came apart pretty easily. I was pleasantly surprised when I found all head studs intact - none broken. Then I got to the pistons and cylinders - not so pleasant. P/C #5 was severly scored along its skirt. The others, had some scoring, but to a much lesser degree. I have a feeling that they all will have to be tossed, but I haven't taken any measurements yet.
What are my options? Do I really need to spend $3000+, or are there less expensive options. A quick scan on ebay turned up a set of QSC (not familiar with this manufacturer) P&C for $1250. Has anyone used these before? Do used sets ever come up where someone is bumping up to a larger bore? Thanks. Geoff Number 5 P&C are shown below http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168134137.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1168134176.jpg |
Henry Schmidt at supertec racing sells the QSC jugs with pistons that he matches, call him about I did and I received a great education on the subject from Henry.
I involved in the same rebuild as you on my 80'. My pistons and jugs were shot, which is where my 30% cylinder leak was coming from. I found that the best option you have if you have Nikisil is to send them to be re-plated by EBS or US Chrome or LN Engineering. They install a new set of JE's at that time and you get them back pretty quick. EBS has 3.0L with warmed up compression for around $1700, and 3.0 >3.2 sets for around $2500. Beyond that you have of course Mahle, which every wrech I have talked to says is still hands down the best option. |
What kind of intake? What kind of cams? Do you have smog requirements?
If going stock cams/intake, used in-spec. Mahle is the cheapest, around $500-800. If you are planning to use radical cams and carbs/MFI/ITB's (individual throttle bodies), then JE pistons ($900) + QSC/Mahle 3.2 (95mm)/bored Mahle 3.2 (98mm)/Perfect Bore/Nickies cylinders are the best bet. Radical cams + intake usually not compatible with smog requirements. Mahle will last the longest, but won't allow you to make the most power. PM me, I can set you up with various options .... cheers Scott |
Scott,
I'm going stock, no performance upgrades. I emailed you. Thanks for your response. Geoff |
Geoff,
I have a new set of Mahles for sale; I PMd you. regards, Phil |
If you have time, you call around to used parts sources, tons in the back of a copy of "Excellence" magazine. Also keep your eyes open on Pelican classifieds. I am in a similar situation and found a set from a fellow Pelican for 500 bucks.
I am no expert, this is my first Porsche engine as well, but a good set of used cylinders and pistons with new rings and the cylinders touched up with a grape hone should work. I don't think it is a 100% that the new rings will seat, but much better than 3000 bucks. Just make sure the used set has been measured to be withing specs. |
Keep in mind that for the factory piston and cylinders there are:
- 4 different diameters ("tolerance groups") - 4 different piston weight groups - 2 different cylinder heights ("height groups") And that's just for the Mahle, Koblesmidt (sp?) also supplied P&C's. This makes replacing a single piston or P&C problematic. For that reason I'd go with a matched set of 6 P&Cs be it used or new. -Chris |
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