engine stand,question and pictures
 

got my engine on my 1992 3.3 964 turbo out my car and stripped down to the main engine with injection/fan etc all removed only engine with exhaust connected left,,so i am now ready to connect to stand to complete my top end rebuild,,i am using the universal stand adapter supplied with the stand bolting it on the engine using the engines gearbox studs that are already in the case though i have made up steel collers machined on my lathe so the ends are square and faced off as packers for the studs.
will this be secure enough to hold the weight of the engine,the stand weight limit is within spec and i know you can get proper adapters but have any of yous guys used a stand adapter like this before which holds in 4 places!!......view below and tell me if this seems ok?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170180962.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170181021.jpg

Looks nice, same thing I did, looks like you make sure your bolted square and tite to the case and on center line. I had my 3.2 on one, complete..

If you are going to use a generic fixture, it is good practice to support the engine with a 2x4 one you get to the long block stage. Better safe than sorry. 3.6s are heavier than any other 911 motor, so supporting that weight is important

Me, I was paranoid enough to spring for the Porsche mount.

Just from reading other posts I thing the general consensus is that you can get away with this. I did. As long as you don't plan to split that case and can use all the supports.
It is suggested that you use the ring when splitting the case. I would assume however that one the majority of the weight of the engine is removed that two of the supports could removed to split the case then reattached one the case halves were reunited. One other idea of the ring is it allows access to the flywheel for torqueing. Just don't forget to torque the flywheel after you remove from the stand and put the clutch on.

CHEERS GUYS,WILL SUPPORT IT WHEN I NOT NEEDING TO WORK ON IT!..JUST IN CASE SOMETHING WAS TO GO WRONG!

Me, I was paranoid enough to spring for the Porsche mount.


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Me too!

I must ask, has anyone really load tested one of these mounts for the weak point? or do we assume they will not hold 500# Thats really not very much weight for how heavy the steel is, or is it the welds?

Craig,

If I understand your question correctly, which I likely do not ;)

I'm not concerned with his welds or the stands, as you say 500lbs is not all that much. What concerns me is that in this design your not spreading the load over as much surface area as the Porsche part does. It doesn't capture the ring on the back of the block and (I'm not an engineer)seems to be putting all the tension on the top two bolts. If you imagined a fulcrum the bottom two bolts are somewhat in compression as the block is trying to pull away from the top of the stand. At least this is how I saw it and sprang for the adapter. Again, not an engineer....at all.

The Porsche guys were engineers and even though they often over build, I just felt safer with my XX thousand dollars hang'n out there.

I think the Porsche mount advantage is solely in the ability to both R&R the clutch assembly and to split/assemble the case. Otherwise, it seems to me the Porsche mount functions the same as the universal mount.

When you have an engine mounted on the Porsche mount in the typical injection side up manner, isn't the upper stud basically doing most of the work? I see what is being said about the contact surface of the semi-circular mount providing additional support and thus reducing the leverage acting on the studs. But in the case of the universal mount, the use of the four studs reduces the loading per stud in a different manner, no?

What about when you have the motor rotated in an orientation such that the Porsche mount looks like an upside down bowl? In that case you would have little load-reducing support by the mount and the two studs would be doing most of the work. At least a universal mount would again have four studs supporting the engine in some sort of mix of tensile, compression work done by FOUR studs.

Seems to me, each mount has its merits and short comings. For basic shortblock work, the universal suits you fine. For longblock work, the Porsche mount is very helpful.

I just purchased a Porsche engine mount ring from Pelican that fastens to the stand using 3/8" bolts. And the ring bolts to the transmission studs on the engine case. The question I have is....The transmission studs are really long so what do I use as spacers? Thanks in advance.

This might be a silly question ...but from looking at your picture your engine stand.the mount is bolting to both side of motor ????
i'm hoping your only doing exterior mods because it'll be hard to split the engine open using that method

Boxer6,

I have the adapter and I just removed the tranny studs and replaced them with some bolts + lock washers I got from Lowes (same thread obviously). Works like a champ and I dont have to deal with spaces.

Also, the way I had the adapter mounted to the stand it was not possible to get the spacers and everything on the stud if the adapter was on the stand first. Putting it on the engine first and then getting it on the stand was also not easy. After I removed the studs and used bolts it was kake.

The only thing tough after that was getting the flywheel bolt tool in. I used a box end wrench around the tool and a it worked fine. My breaker bar would not fit between the stand and the flywheel.

Best regards,

Michael