Convert a continuous timing chain to a master link?
 

Anyone know whether it's possible to pop out and remove a link from a continuous timing chain, and replace it with a master link, so that I can install the chain in situ? I have two continuous chains, and would prefer not spitting the cases to install them. Wonder if anyone has actual first- or second-hand experience doing this -- beyond theoretical hypothesizing. Thanks.

I think you are asking if you can remove the original no M link type chains and replace the chains with master link type. My memory is that this is possible. The small "E" clips are very easy to bend so be careful.

very possible. i'm not sure if the continuous chains could be unlinked by a chain breaker tool - but worth a try. if not just get a bolt cutter and mind any metal bits that might come off. i replaced my continuous with master links while engine was disassembled. However, be very careful about the chain ramps. In my 964 the ramps/rails, whatever you call them, have raised ridges on the outer edges, presumably to help "guide" the chain along the ramp and control lateral slop. These raised ridges will pop the little E clip right off the master link post. I had to dremel (actually a razor blade works best as they are just plastic) the ridges off my brand new set of ramps to prevent this from happening when the motor is running. I'm pretty sure a timing chain coming loose would grenade the motor. Moral of the story - don't try this with 3.6 motors "in situ". Now that I've "butchered" my ramps, however, I could do it in situ - though I don't think I'll ever really need to replace the chains without removing the motor. If it's a pre 3.6 motor I don't think the ramps have these ridges on the outsides but worth a check - I know the chain itself will wear a groove into the ramps. Just be sure to check the clearance between the E clip and any part of the ramp it might touch. Oh and the ramps tend to get quite brittle over time.

You'll need one of these to break the chains.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1172181619.jpg

Available at any bearing house or farm supply. They should have a supply of chain and master links as well.

Thanks
 

Thanks to all who provided some good insight. I can tell you guys are problem-solvers.

Chain breaker tools are certainly the way to go.

But I did this by grinding the cross pin peened tips off of an outside link. Pulled the two hole plate off, then pushed the rest out the back side. Then used the master link to hook old to new chain and thread the new chain around the innards.

At this remove I don't recall what I did to prevent grit from getting where it shouldn't. Whatever it was it worked.

And of course with a chain breaker tool you don't have to worry much about grit.

You will also hear from people who say you shouldn't replace just the chain - all the gears should be replaced as well. Doubtless this is good engineering practice, but I got good service from my master link replacement chain.

Walt Fricke

I have done a couple of chains the same way Walt has suggested. It has proven to work well.


Cheers

I remember from my motorcycling days that the closed end of the master link should always face the direction of travel.

I've never had a final or primary (duplex or triplex) drive chain lose a master link that was in good condition (undamaged) and correctly seated to start with.

Most bike engines that use a chain primary drive have a tensioner block or ramp (usually nylon); visible wear marks (grooving) in the nylon are not generally regarded as a reason to replace these, so long as there's adequate material left before it gets down to the steel backing plate.

So the master link would contact the outside groove in the tensioner block material left by the side plate(s) of the chain every time it completes a revolution. So long as it's assembled the right way round, it shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for the ideas and advice.

This is great information. Thank you all.

On a 911 up to 1989 (pre-964) it is hard to see why this emphasis on how the master link clip faced is important. For that matter, I've never had a chain rail wear significantly, so I don't think of them as something to replace when rebuilding an engine. However, it costs nothing to install the clip the "right" way.

But Chance points out the 964 ramps are made differently, and Spuggy gives us motorcycle information that makes it clear why in other circumstances orientation does make a difference.

Walt

Can you remove two links or so from a stretched continous chain with a chain break tool and install one master link? In essence convert a continouus chain to a master link chain.

you cannot replace part of a chain if that is what you are asking. well you could but it would defeat the purpose of changing the chain anyway - which is to get your valve timing back to where it should be. The entire chain stretches, not just a couple links. I agree that sprockets should be changed when worn at all - but would recommend buying new ones and comparing the new and old. If you can't see a difference return the new - it's worth the shipping as a litmus test. If you can see a difference, use the new ones. At $50 each, it's worth not replacing them if they aren't worn.