Z Block Dimensions
 

Can someone provide me with the proper dimensions of the Z block (dial indicator holding tool P207), if I'm not out of line asking? I performed a search and came up with dimensions for someone's home-made tool, but it doesn't appear to match the P207 tool. I prefer to make my own tool and don't see a reason to reinvent the wheel...;)

Thx

Mike :cool:

Hi mike,

I made my own out of mild steel. I just mocked one up using card stock paper and the dial indicator that I have. Then I cut it, drilled the required holes and spot welded it together. I'm sure mine is nowhere near the measurements of the one you can buy, but who cares. It works just fine.

Good luck,

Dion

I too was going to make mine, I hope others jump in with some data.

Thanks,

Alex

Dion,

can you post a picture of yours?

brant

OK, keep in mind that I was after function, not form. :D

I made two of them. The smaller one is for #1, the larger one is for #4. One of these days I'll paint them and make them look nice, but why?

Dion
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174652672.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174652688.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174652702.jpg

Great, thanks for the pic and your time. I'll make a set today.

Best Regards,

Alex

David,

Your awesome!

Thanks,

Alex

Dion,
Nothing wrong with your design or construction methods as long as it works. Many different ways to do this. Thx

Thanks also to you David (125shifter)

Mike :cool:

Now where's the best source for the dial gauge?

Harbor Freight has a decent selection of inexpensive dial indicators. I ordered a couple of 1" digital metric/inch indicators for 19.99 each, but I just checked the site and the 1" digital indicator doesn't appear to be available right now.

Mike :cool:

John,

I bought mine at the Harbor Freight in Parma. It's not metric, and it's not digital, but it works. Just a little translation is all it takes, although metric would be much easier.

Dion

Metric dial indicators are available constantly on ebay.

Don't waste your money on the inexpensive ones, they cannot be repaired and have soft iron racks that easily chip. Mitutoyo are good, as are Kafer and Mahr (both made in Germany) and the Cadillac of Indicators, the Swiss Compac.

+1

RE: dial indicators
For the price of a Mity I can go through 5-10 of the others... If you are gentle and do not toss them around like toys they will work just fine and last for a long time. Got the analog w/ mag stand from Enco (www.use-enco.com) and the digital from Harbor Freight.

Then again, if I had a lot of disposable income I would be buying a Mitutoyo or similar brands simply because they are very nice tools...

David:
Nice drawing, but I'm missing a dim shown as the thick red line:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1174796488.gif

That .313 hole circled in red, is that supposed to be clearance for M8? or M6? Kinda small for an M8 (.315) and big for the M6 (.236) so I could not tell. Did you measure this off of a block you have?

Best regards,

Michael

Opps, I pulled up the cad drawing and it has that dimension, so I guess I exported the pic before the drawing was finished.

The missing dimension is .750" and I pulled up the Z block I made and it has a 5/16" hole for the M8 stud so it does work.

I tapped the side of the indicator hole for a 10-32 bolt.

I guessed at it as .8 for the dim and .315 +.01 -.0. I put in a 6-32 instead *shrug* No big deal ;) thanks!

Enjoy!

Michael

Just doing some research on z-blocks and had to make my 2 cent comment....

As Mod 304065 said, don't waste your money on the cheap ones. It's not just that the cheap ones won't last, it's also about the precision (or lack of) with which they are made. Sloppy manufacturing and fabrication lead to inconsistent and not precise (incorrect readings).

For not too much money you can have a nice gage like these
with quoted accuracy of +/- 0.001 for $89.00: Mitutoyo 2414S Dial Indicator, #4-48 UNF Thread, 0.375" Stem Dia., Lug Back, White Dial, 0-100 Reading, 2.244" Dial Dia., 0-0.5" Range, 0.001" Graduation, +/-0.001" Accuracy: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Mitutoyo and other "better" brands tell you accuracy, both for first revolution and after first. You're not going to find that information on the cheap stuff. Some of those have plastic gears.

You can also sell your nice gage once you're done with it. If you buy it new (or buy used then have it calibrated), you'll at least have the peace of mind that critical measurements were done with an instrument that gives you accurate, repeatable readings.

If you want to learn more about metrology, including comparison of different brands: 027 : Long Island Indicator Service : Sales, Repairs and Spare Parts

Another +1 from me....buy a decent Mitutoyo, you need accuracy...for the first timer, cam timing can be a patience testing exercise, last thing you also want is inconsistent readings when you set, check, double check your timings.

I went for a jumbo readout analogue Mitutoyo, and if I were to do it again, probably wouldn't go with this model...breathe on it and you get movement!! Joking aside, it was probably too big to squeeze in places and align (I didn't use a Z block, instead I made a mounting plate that uses the valve cover studs to bolt onto the cam carrier, then a magnetic stand...wouldn't go that route again either in hindsight!!...Next time I'll spend the time making a nice Z block per the diagram)

I can't refute any of you for touting the quality tool rule, I have many high quality tools in my rollaway. However, after spending close to $7k on the build of my motor, I decided I really didn't need to go top shelf on basically a single use item. Especially since I wanted a dual setup to check both sides simultaneously.

Since this old thread has been resurrected, I thought I'd follow up with a report on how things turned out in light of my choice.

I ended up buying a new z-block and made another one to match. I also bought the el cheapo HF digital indicators (x2) for $20 each. Performed the timing process as required with no issues (see photo). I can tell you my motor is properly timed and runs flawlessly to this day. IMO the cheap gauges are as accurate as they needed to be.

As soon as I completed the timing process, I removed the batteries and boxed the gauges back up. They've been sitting on the shelf ever since and I don't know if they'll ever get used again, or if they'd even work if needed. If anyone needs to borrow them or wants to compare them to a better quality gauge, I'll be happy to send them to you to time your valves or to test for comparative analysis...;)

Mike...:cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356046684.jpg

Thought I'd throw this one in for the heck of it...;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356047040.jpg