Chris: To you mean directly around the joint where the stud enters the case (where one would spray PB Blaster to penetrate a stuck bolt) ?

I welded nuts on them with a MIG, the heat from welding loosens the loctite. On the long ones that I could grab, I just put a bead near the case as a heat source.

Yes.

You are trying to melt the thread locker, not just heat and expand the hole the stud is in. That is why what Chris says makes sense and works.

Cheers

Just tried Chris' method on one of the studs-it worked like a charm with my not-so-expensive stud puller. It's one of the ones that looks like a sparkplug socket and has three "fingers" that grip the stud. I'll pull the rest tomorrow.

I actually focused the flame on the stud about 1/2" from where it enters the case, then gave it a test turn which didn't require much torque at all. I'll tell you what, it also avoids the squeamish feeling I'm sure I'd get if I was heating the case directly.

some will certainly come out that way. some.

Please don't put the jinx on me!!

I used chris' method. Looking back on it - the longer the breaker the bar - the better. #2 have someone heat while you twist. deliberate movements allow clean removal - impact or jerking breaks studs.

If you break one - cover your case with sraran wrap. Take the 2" of left over stud (or whatever you have left) and dremel a square on the end of the studs. Then find the biggest pair of vice grips, clamp down - heat and turn!

All studs out!! Chris' method was painless.....maybe an hour?

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