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Interesting note on case studs
I noticed today (maybe you all know this, but I did not) that when looking at the stud descriptions in PET or PP Catalog the length is measured from the surface to the end of the stud... NOT the entire stud length! for example: in the pic below (courtesy of Chris Bennet) the 32.5 mm studs listed on the bottom of the case will be described as 8mm x 32 and not 8mm x 48 which is the total length of the stud. The 32 is measured to include the long threaded portion plus the un-threaded portion of the stud, or so it seems...
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Some people never realize this so you aren't "the last one to know". I know a certain parts vendor (not PP) that doesn't know this and he's been in the new and used Porsche parts business longer than I can remember...
-Chris |
What? Are you gentlemen saying that the stud spec is installed height, not overall length?
I'm not disagreeing but isn't that a very non-teutonic, non-DIN way to describe a part? :) |
John,
Sorry to burst your bubble ;) I know you love having everything follow the rules and be exact :) but yes that is exactly what we are saying. go pick up a stud that you know the part number of or measure an installed one and look in PET you will see... caused me several days of grief looking through the PET for studs that matched what I measured IN TOTAL LENGTH! I was loosing hair and I don't have that much left to begin with!! -m |
Yes gentlemen, but doesn't it follow, since the length of a bolt doesn't include the head ......?
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All right, I'm going to measure a few myself. I invite the rest of the global 911 community to do the same. Here's some 901 reference data. . .
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185550152.jpg |
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BUT, IMHO a stud is somewhat special... unless the threaded portion that is not part of the length listed is standardized you would end up with the same listing description for studs with entirely different overall lengths... It may very well be that there is some DIN stud standard out there that specs this out so we don't have this issue. John: The Dimension column... is that what you measured?? or from your book? Best regards, Michael PS: Nowhere else but this board could we have such an arcane discussion and not be the laughing stock of the pub ;) speaking of pub... I need food :) |
Michael,
Those are from the book. Obviously they change over the years. I found a diagram for DIN 835, you gents are exactly right. The "L" dimension is the equivalent of grip length, or what you would measure under the head of a bolt. Fascinating. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1185553205.jpg |
Does Din 835 specify what the 'e' dimension should be?
best regards, Michael |
Thanks John (the nuts and bolts reference man)
It is amazing what we all continue to learn from this forum. A few months ago the local porsche dealership bought in a few studs from Germany for me. This explains why there were numerous attempts to get the correct required length. Paul |
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What I wanted: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/PartsLookup/search.cgi?command=show_page&Catalog_Name=911_USA_ 78_83_KATALOG&Illustration=101-10&Line_Item=12 the catalog says M8 x 78... the order on the packing slip has the correct part number/description... just wrong part. They must have picked up the wrong part as the other 10 studs I got were correct so even back at the factory they make errors... Now I have to deal with the dealer :( and it will be another 10 days before I get my case together... maybe more... Best regards, Michael |
Looks like DIN 835 is a "tap end with interference fit" meaning the threads are sized bigger on the short end.
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For example, if you order something from a dealer like Stoddard you won't necessary get factory parts. -Chris |
I agree with Chris. If they are black oxide, that's a DIN spec stud, but the factory would have specified yellow zinc for corrosion resistance in the aluminum case.
What stud remover are you guys using? I have a HAZET 10mm but I don't think it's intended to be used on the threaded portion of the stud, only the shank. At least when I used it to remove my headstuds it buggered the threads big time (no problem as they went in the garbage). But now when I contemplate R&Ring studs (such as the ones on my manifolds, see my other thread) I want something that won't damage them. |
Snap-On tool is the bomb for stud removal. I believe the p/n is referenced in Wayne's engine rebuilding book.
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I'm using a Baum tool. This one is for 8mm and has a threaded collar w/ lock nut. I also have the cam style that you mention, John. It toasts threads in a second... DO NOT use it on your case studs unless you are replacing them all ;) At the time I tried to order the 10mm Baum as well, but the guy said they were out and stopped making them...
-Michael |
Look here:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=10349&group_ID=1247 I just bought the 3 common thread pitches instead of the whole set. Very nice. Not German, but I think that's forgivable. |
The Snap-On extractors are very nice, as are the installers. I bought a set of Matco extractors, a while back, in a pinch. They were reasonable, under $70 for a set of four, and worked quite well. They won't protect the threads the way the collets do, but worked quite well.
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Euro911S You did great work, Thank you,
do you have this also for the timing chain bolts available. Greetings Bob |
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