my rebuild
 

first photos.....

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...em75/cover.jpg

That's it??!!??

first but not last:)

Looks Great.... you painted them and media blasted the cam housing ? Mine look very similar!

Keep itup!

I stop at the shop and blast a couple of parts each day, one step at a time....

the paint is International Harvester Red preimum farm implement paint. it is supposed to stand up to head, grease, oil, wear, and just about anything else one could throw at it. at 7 bucks a can from Tractor Supply it ought to!

After blasting the covers, I put them in the dishwasher and the surface came out a lot smoother than it was before. Much better finish than just painting after blasting.

You should get the correct length M8 studs for the two that are excessively long on the intake side. Looks good though

You WIN!!!!! I was wondering how long it would take for that to get noticed and I will!

You cetainly have some photo skills! what camera are you using?

Give us the details on the build........

Cheers

The camera is just a Nikon D2X, light box above, gel on the back light, nothing special.
I recently acquired a 70 911T.
I had just replaced both rear wheel bearings and it was so smooth, but only got about a hundred miles down the road before the rocker shaft fell out.
It has 125k, was driving to Corpus for an Ag reunion when a rocker shaft slipped out and I lost a valve with the consequent oil deluge. The motor had the usual oil leaks so I figured it was time. I've been air honeing all the parts that will get paint. New aluminum jugs with new pistons and rings, valve touch up, new bearings of course, oil pump is good, it has the tensioner upgrade but I'm getting the collars to prevent tensioner piston from failing, new chains, new upgraded oil pressure relief pistons and springs, oil passage restrictor upgrade in head. Micropolishing the crank, glass beaded the rods. No major performance mods, just trying to put it back with good parts and procedures. The car was originally blue but has been done in black everywhere. The doors have some serious rust at the bottom, other than that it's solid everywhere else. Just a damn fun car to drive, almost as much fun as the Alfas I had in the past, well maybe a little more fun:)

Alfa's are fun :)

Sounds like a good project, you are in good hands on this board.

Cheers

You say the oil pump is good and you are using upgraded pressure relief valves and springs. These statements don't go together. You need a later oil pump with case bypass mod or you need to keep the old pressure relief valve and spring. I don't think you can put collars on the hydraulic tensioners.

-Andy

Humm, John at Pelican led me through what I needed. The pressure relief upgrade is a piston without the holes in the side. We discussed my oil pump and he recommended the new oil pressure relief solution.
We also talked about the tensioner upgrade and he recommended the collars for those tensioners. He said he had them on his engine.
If this information is not correct I want to find out now and not later.

My information on the pressure relief valves cames from Bruce Anderson's 911 performance handbook. He says if you mix the pressure relief valves with the wrong case bypass you will introduce oil pressure problems. The relief valve with the holes is for the old pump with the bypass that goes into the bottom of the case (standard on pre75 911 cases). The new bypass is for engines with the updated pump and bypass that goes to the input galley of the oil pump(standard on post 75 911 cases).

I haven't seen a collar for the hydraulic tensioners but maybe that is something new that I don't know about. If they fit then probably not a problem using them.

I don't know who John is but maybe he can explain to you about the 2 types of oil pumps and what the bypass mod is. If he knows all about that then maybe he is right about the pressure relief valve upgrade working ok with your pump.

-Andy

I certainly appreciate the info. Knowledge is power and I'll double check with him. Got to give them a call Monday anyway, got my parts today but no book. Still need to order a couple of exhaust studs and rocker cover studs and a couple of other things. I'm still cleaning and preping so there is no great rush.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...840_edited.jpg

Upon close examination of the oil pump I noticed the pick up tube seemed to be loose. I gave it a gentle tug and it came out of the housing. It appeared to be jb or devconed as the only means of attachment. Is this right? Should I re-glue it back in. If that is the way it's done I wish I would never had found out because having my rebuild depend on how well something is glued in to something else is rather disconcerting to say the least.

Hey, I have that same table saw/workbench

far out!

Nothing special, hahahahahahahaha :p

Keep those great photos coming!! SmileWavy

a kodak moment

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3.../crankcase.jpg

great pictures, but...
where's your engine stand?
how did you assemble and torque the case halves?
or is this trick photography and photoshop? :D
keep up the good work,
bob

Yes the oil pick-up tube is only glued in. I haven't had to re-glue one so I'd look for other recommendations but I would thing JB weld should work ok.
Good thing you found that because if it came loose after you buttoned it up you'd have a big problem.

-Andy

The engine stand is right outside. I didn't want to join one unstressed half to the stressed half on a stand. It just didn't seem right, especially since there are only two attachment points and even with the ring I just couldn't bring myself to add all that weight to a half only supported at one end with two bolts, was told not to worry about it but I did. Had it held whilst torquing halfs. Almost out of assembly lube and it's only been used on rebuilds, all different thank goodness:)
Thanks

Well, I don't think I understand or agree with your concerns on using the stand. There have only been what-10's of thousands of rebuilds done on flat sixes in the last 40 something years- using the yokes? My guess is the case moves more at 6,000 RPM than static on a stand.

No need to agree. Not necessary. I'm not out to convince anyone, I've already done that to myself. However it is supported at both ends when at 6k.

I'm with you. Most people I know think a $3000 camera is rather special. Heck, I think a $1000 camera is pretty special. :)

That being said, yeah, let's see some more pics, we all love watching engines go together!

actually the last one in the garage was taken with a 300 dollar 5 year old kodak. The studio stuff was with the Nikon. Just got some new soft boxes in will try them out on the motor.

shaft alignment:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...alinement3.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/DSC_0778.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/DSC_0775.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...ssembeled2.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...assembeled.jpg

Cam Timing: anyone care to check my work?
1970 T
valve adjusted to .004in
2.30-2.70 mm of lift at the overlap
shoot for 2.50
guage in inches. 2.50= 0.0984251968505 call it 98 thou
guage at 0.00in @ TDC compression stroke
rotate crank 360 to the overlap position
guage has moved to 0.098, valve is depressed that much.

(after 3 or four repositions of the pin)

feels good to me.

Sounds like you got it!

Cheers

Thanks!
When one does it for the first time it really does help to have it all in front of you. It pretty much falls into place. The description in fig 7-14 (that number brings back memories) of the book is the best of them all.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1850.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1847.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1846.jpg

getting close!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...5/100_1857.jpg

going in tomorrow, will she fire up on first crank?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f310/gigem75/2_2.jpg

Put engine in tonight. She fired up during first crank. No leaks. One moment of terror until I remembered you have to sometimes tap the oil pressure glass. Great pressure, smooth!
Will post video tomorrow.

Nothing but static timing, and initial carb settings. Will set timing and sounds like 4 or 5 could use about a half a turn out on idle mixture. There is no way to really know but it was the first crank attempt, Scouts & Aggie Honnor.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...m75/th_911.jpg

Time to close the thread, put 100 miles of easy driving on it Sunday and today. Significant gains in oil pressure, sounds tight, super smooth, no leaks, Webers are dialed in and we are good to go. Thanks to all.

rebuild
 

No one jumped on the 7-14 ref, but I can relate.....


Ahhhhhhhhhh Good Times...........

;);)

I was wondering if anyone would.

Got the engine back in yesterday, retourqued the heads, adjusted the valves, checked everything over. I guess everything happens for the best.... I never even checked the pivot bolt for the clutch fork, it worked it's way loose resulting in no clutch action so I had to pull the engine after circa 400 miles. I thought it strange the clutch fork didn't have any freeplay on the original install and the release bearing was snug against the fork. Turns out there was a flat washer on top of the spring plate which is thinner than the OEM conical washer. The flat washer took up all the free play in the fork. I had ordered a new piviot bolt, spring washer, and conical washer. Upon installing that I had normal free play in the fork and it adjusted out nicely with the cable adjustment. I should be glad that bolt worked loose because I never would have taken that apart and been driving around with a release bearing under a slight amount of load from the fork. I suspect I would have ended up with premature wear on the release bearing. Everything is dialed in great and syncronized webers are beatuiful things.