3.2 liter to a 1982 SC

[Kevinwilliams]

I have a 1982 911 SC.

I just purchased a 3.2 liter out of a 1984 which is now in my garage. While I do not see any major difficulties in this conversation and understand it is fairly common and straight forward, is there any specific information on what is required to do this?

Thanks

Kevin

[trekkor]

What car are you putting it in?


KT

[Jeff Alton]

I think it is going in his 82 SC

Cheers

[Kevinwilliams]

Yep, that is correct. I am putting in my 82 SC

[Shawn 357]

Assuming that you are using the injection from the 84 you are going to have to notch the bellhousing in your sc so that you can add a sensor that the 3.2 has. There are some other things but they are all very doable. I hate when people say this but do a search, I am sure that you will have to sort through lots of pages of crap but I would bet someone has posted all of this info in the past. If you can't find the info you need send me an email and I will do what I can to help.

[Rich76_911s]

Here is a synopsis in doing it into a mid-year. There may be a few differences between a mid year 74-77 and your 82, but for the most part the process should be similar to this, I thinik (I hope becasue I am going to be putting a 3.2L into a '78 hopefully this spring, and have been planning on following this example).

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq1/

There used to be a web site with some wiring information on 3.0 to 3.2, but I can't get the web page to open maybe you can. Or maybe someone has a new URL for it:
http://www.dowtynet.com/porsche/3_0to3_2electrical.htm

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress the more examples we have on here the more lessons we learn.

Enjoy
Rich

[trekkor]

What's happening with the 3.0? Selling?


KT

[Kevinwilliams]

To answer a couple of questions...

The 3 liter that is in there was rebuilt by me. I kind of over built it. It is kind of a lumpy hot-rody engine and embarrasses my wife when we pull up to someone’s house or a store. She will no longer ride in it. I raced PCA and SCCA wheel to wheel in another car about 10 years ago. I thought I still wanted a hot rod and find while I want the hp, I do not want it as radical as it is. It's actually not that radical as I have about 8,000 miles of street use on the car since the rebuild however it starts and runs cold blooded and is a little to "brapy"

Ported and Polished Heads, Big bore MAHLE barrels and high compression Max Moritz pistons, Back dated exhaust, bored throttle body, back dated intake manifold runners and air box to 78 / 79 spec 39 millimeter vs. 34 millimeter, 964 cam profile, and the Distributor re-curved by Jerry Woods. The engine is very clean and looks like new.

The above is the general overview of what was done to the engine. It has a recent Dyno that shows 183.8 rear wheel hp and 181.5 rear wheel torque. The mechanic that did the Dyno said this probably translated out to 225 to 235 flywheel hp.

I think with a chip, SSI's, dual inlet, duel outlet exhaust and extruded intake runners I can get as much or more hp from the 3.2 that starts and runs smooth. I also do not care that much for the CSI Fuel injection and thought about adding hp going to Carbs but realized this would do more of what I am trying to avoid. I CAN NOT HELP MYSELF, I am an ex (teenage years) hot rod Chevy guy. At whatever point I have to rebuild it I will be "forced" to put in eruo spec 10.3 to 1 pistons to squeeze out a few more smooth and usable hp.

Soooo, to answer one question, I am going to sell it, will do compression test and leak down, pics and video of it starting and running before I price it. My work has kept me so busy right now it may take a couple of weeks.

I have searched the web pretty aggressively and have not seen anything step by step of what needs to be changed exactly.

I looked up the web attachment sent by Rich and while there is a couple pieces of info (Thanks Rich) I am hoping to find a step 1 - 23 or however many steps are different from putting back a stock 3 liter. I can probably stumble my way through it but the older I get the less I try and do my imitation of a bull in a china shop.

I have both of Wane Dempsey’s books How to rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines and 101 Projects for your Porsche as well as Bruce Anderson’s Porsche 911 Performance Handbook. I do not see anything in any of these books.

Thanks all!

Kevin

[Rich76_911s]

Kevin,

I found this on my computer and thought it might help you.

Rich

This is the 14 Pin Female on the 3.2 engine. Pin numbers are divided odd on top and even on the bottom. The pin assignments are as follows:

1. yellow - starter Kl.50
2. red - source from alternator Kl.30 ( or B+ )
3. green/black - Oil temperature Instrument
4. green/red - Oil pressure Instrument
5. red/green - from ignition.( Kl.15 ) to backup light switch
6. gray/brown - backup light switch to lights
7. free
8. brown/black - temp switch for fresh air blower
9. green/white - Oil pressure idiot light
10. free
11. blue - alternator control light Kl.61 ( or D+ )
12. free
13. black/yellow - power source for fresh air blower
14. red - source from alternator Kl.30 or B+

[Kevinwilliams]

Rich:

Thank you:

I have not gotten very far on this. I think this refers to the open pins from the harness from the new engine? I take it I am using this guide to plug into what? This make me feel too stupid to do this project.

Am I just grabbing wires and bringing them to 14 loose pins?

I assume that once I get the old engine out and take a good look at the new one and the wiring harness that came with the engine some of this will become more clear to me?

Our... if you can help clear this up a bit...

Thanks again

Kevin

[Rich76_911s]

Kevin I am in the same boat as you are with knowing what to do with this information. I am pretty sure on the link I posted above Marc goes over it pretty well. My engine is in plastic tubs and cardboard boxes ready to ship to a machine shop when I have a couple $'s. So I haven't done the install yet, and haven't studied up on it too much aside from saving resources for when I do the transplant. I've just been reading waynes How to rebuild and modify 911 engines book continuously so when I get the machine work done I know how to put it all back together.

You will have to extend some wiring because where the female end of the 14 pin plug on the 3.2 terminates is not close to where the female end on the 3.0L terminates. Hence the 3.2L femal end cannot reach the male end of the 3.0L. Again this is gone over pretty well on Marcs web site.

I'm confident that we can figure it out, and I am sure there are some posts on this and the tech forum about doing the transplant.

Rich

[Laneco]

Kevin,
We put an 85 3.2 into our 80 chassis. Wiring the electronics was actually pretty easy. More involved than say, electronic ignition into a V8 Chevy, but easier than adding a remote start to a hot-rod. The directions provided by these guys do work. The 3.2 wiring harness is almost self explanatory when you lay it out. There's a few wires you have to bring forward, but they are grouped together with a common factory type shrink protector.

Ours ran first try (well 2nd try after fixing a fuel leak) - much to our shock. Chasing a few chassis existing chassis related electrical problems, but the 3.2 starts easily at the flick of the key. Love it - worth every bit of effort.

angela

[NoEardGoat]

Originally Posted by Kevinwilliams

To answer a couple of questions...

The 3 liter that is in there was rebuilt by me. I kind of over built it. It is kind of a lumpy hot-rody engine and embarrasses my wife when we pull up to someone’s house or a store. She will no longer ride in it. I raced PCA and SCCA wheel to wheel in another car about 10 years ago. I thought I still wanted a hot rod and find while I want the hp, I do not want it as radical as it is. It's actually not that radical as I have about 8,000 miles of street use on the car since the rebuild however it starts and runs cold blooded and is a little to "brapy"

Ported and Polished Heads, Big bore MAHLE barrels and high compression Max Moritz pistons, Back dated exhaust, bored throttle body, back dated intake manifold runners and air box to 78 / 79 spec 39 millimeter vs. 34 millimeter, 964 cam profile, and the Distributor re-curved by Jerry Woods. The engine is very clean and looks like new.

The above is the general overview of what was done to the engine. It has a recent Dyno that shows 183.8 rear wheel hp and 181.5 rear wheel torque. The mechanic that did the Dyno said this probably translated out to 225 to 235 flywheel hp.

I think with a chip, SSI's, dual inlet, duel outlet exhaust and extruded intake runners I can get as much or more hp from the 3.2 that starts and runs smooth. I also do not care that much for the CSI Fuel injection and thought about adding hp going to Carbs but realized this would do more of what I am trying to avoid. I CAN NOT HELP MYSELF, I am an ex (teenage years) hot rod Chevy guy. At whatever point I have to rebuild it I will be "forced" to put in eruo spec 10.3 to 1 pistons to squeeze out a few more smooth and usable hp.

Soooo, to answer one question, I am going to sell it, will do compression test and leak down, pics and video of it starting and running before I price it. My work has kept me so busy right now it may take a couple of weeks.

Please let us know how much for your 3.0L engine? CR, etc.

[Rich76_911s]

Found another helpful website for you:
http://www.derporsche.net/links/jeff.htm