Setting Chains - Cams Move in/out
 

72 2.4 I am trying to set my chain shims on my new cams but am having some deviance when measuring. My cams are All the way in and Ive put the recommended 4 shims on the right and 3 on the left (drv side) , I have the first "washer with the Bevel facing in as it should" .. and No woodruff key installed. Ive tourqed the 46's to 110. After doing so i can still Move the Cams IN and OUT ? It seems that my Pas side one measures within Spec but the Drv side one is out by about 1.5. Which would equate to about 3 SHIMS !

I am measuring from the Furthest Outside edge of Each Sprocket I just Dont UNDERSTAND..

Help Please .. this is getting Frustrating! :mad:

How Far should the Aluminum Plugs on the Backs of the Cams be IN ??? Bc this is where I can hear the Cam touching IN and OUT...

I am installing 4 shims on the Pas side and 3 On the Drv side..

Hers what Ive come to My Intermediate measurment is 51.78

The Drv side #1 has settled in with 5 shims . with the Cam Pressed all the way in the measurment is 51.95 With it Pulled all the way out 51.7 Both are within the .25 tolerance

The Pas side #4 has settled in with 4 Shims. With the cam Pressed all the way in the measurement is 52.7 and with it Pulled Out it is 51.78. ..
I cant understand Why with this side pressed All the way in there's a difference of .92 and with it Out its ON THE MONEY... Best I can get it.. Im leaving It..

Are you bolting everything up? ie the big nut on the end of the cam? with this tightend up properly before you take your measurement the cam should have very little play. Its very unusual for an engine to deviate from the 3 on one side 4 on the other.

Do a search on this.

Steve

Are the sprockets on a 2.4 installed with one facing one way and the other facing the other way like on a 2.2? I'm assuming you are checking this in relation to the intermediate shaft?

Cams
 

Mitch, what you are trying to acomplish is the sprocket alignment not stop the cams from floating, the intermediate shaft and cams need to be pushed towards the flywheel to check this, start with some shims (3 will work to test) and measure to the outer edge of the sprocket and compare to the value taken from the intermediate shaft sprocket it should be within less than a shim thickness, if the difference is greater add a shim to bring the sprocket towards you and so on. I am assuming that you have the special fixture or simular with a long straight edge, remember there is an offset value of 2.157 in. that gets added in for the 1.2.3 side because the chain sprocket is deeper by that much.
dont worry about the # of total shims I have seen as many as 5 or as few as 2
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com

+1 on should not change from what it was... I went over and over this and after I finally got good repeatable measurements using the Stomski tools... the results were the shims that were in there initially were correct - a bunch of time and horsing around but I think it does need to be checked...

Thanks for the tips.. Ive set them already and think I've gotten them as close as I can. the Pas side #4 was the side giving some deviance becasue Of how much it would Move In and out.. With it Pushed all the way In I would have Needed to Add 2 Shims from the Initial 4 and with It Pulled Out I only needed to add 1 shim..

By only adding One shim I was able to get the Value to be Closest to My original check # whether the sprcket was Pushed IN or OUt. With It pulled Out it was Right On the Money.. Which Is where I think the Sprocket will ride naturally.

I was never very clear on if/how the cam in and out play was separate or combined with the shimming... I expect it would be separate... I forget exactly I think the process was to push the sprocket in and then take the measurements.... other threads may have better detail on this or the Wayne book.