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James in Texas starts his rebuild...

I am WAY behind Ed - his is already buttoned up. And kapple is way ahead of me too. Just now I got my oil drain started. But it is a start!

Captions below pictures:

This was my birthday present a few years back from my wife (Wendy, who autocrosses, time trials, and DE's this car, and is constantly telling me I need to buy her more tires - great gal!). It makes it nice and toasty in the garage on those bitter winter days where it gets below 50 here in Texas

I made the little piece of wood on a hinge with a fan on it to deflect the heat from my race tire rack above the heater, and to get better heat distribution. It folds up when not in use, close to the wall. Anyone who knows me, knows why there is a foam piece protecting the front of the wood - I hit my head on EVERYTHING. Wendy wants me to wear a helmet any time I am in the garage.


This is my newest toy - the leak-down tester. Got it from JEGS and it works fine. I first heard bad noises from the engine after a money shift, and suspected I bent valves. Well, as it turns out, the leakdown test indicated otherwise. My 140,000 mile engine had leakdowns of 2% 2% 3% 2% 1% 2%. Not too shabby. Anyone in DFW area that wants to borrow the gauges, is welcome. Fun, and not that hard to do. You should adjust the valves first (or you could do a before and after), and that takes a lot longer than the leak-down test.


Another new toy - 12 foot long garage exhaust hose. The straight-ish end goes over my tail pipe and chains to something useful to keep it from flopping off. The hose then gets run outside the garage. No more choking to death or fumigating my daughter's bedroom, which happens to be RIGHT over the garage. I also got a little adapter that will let me poke a hole in the garage door to run it THROUGH the door - so I don't have to raise the door and let the heat out. But Wendy hasn't bought into the idea of cutting a hole in the garage door. Maybe when she isn't looking....


And here is the car before I start... Hopefully the next pictures are of me in the engine bay. I won't cheat and post the ones from last time I dropped the engine

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Old 12-14-2007, 07:38 PM
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Good for you! I am glad you decided to take this on yourself! You are in good hands here on the board. If I have anything you need, then let me know and you can use it!


Cheers
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Old 12-14-2007, 08:40 PM
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Good luck James, I stalled my project by about 2 months due to an illness but it turned out I'll be doing it during our "brutal" winter. I say that in jest for our neighbors to the north who actually HAVE a winter. We Dallasites go to pieces when it's below 40 and raining.
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Old 12-14-2007, 08:58 PM
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I know I have seen that car at MSR before.

I, Jamie from Texas started mine today too. Heads shipped off to the machine shop on Thursday and the cams went to DRC this morning. Thursday was also the day I started the ceramic and dry film coatings on the pistons. I will only be doing a top end and I have collected spare parts to send out ahead of time. The goal once everything is back from the machine shop is to drop the engine, rebuild the top-end thanks to a broken head stud and have it back in the car in one week. I know its an aggressive timeline but I think I can pull it off.

Oh yeah, the 3.0 will be going from stock to JE 9.5:1/DC40 cams "while I am in there."
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:33 AM
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James, It is good to see you post your project here. I hope the "money shift" did not do much damage. Look forward to following your progress.

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Old 12-15-2007, 02:35 PM
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James,

For the leakdown tester it helps to get a piece of tubing (can be any material, I happened to use aluminum because I had it handy) and cut it about 5" long and slide it over the 14mm end of the hose so the connector protrudes. This will allow you to turn the tubing to fit it into the spark plug hole, easier than trying to spin the hose between your palms to get it seated. Don't make it TOO long or you won't be able to get it in the hole when the engine is in the car.

The trick setup is to get a HAZET 3428. . .if you are doing this a lot.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_cramer View Post
For the leakdown tester it helps to get a piece of tubing (can be any material, I happened to use aluminum because I had it handy) and cut it about 5" long and slide it over the 14mm end of the hose so the connector protrudes. This will allow you to turn the tubing to fit it into the spark plug hole, easier than trying to spin the hose between your palms to get it seated. Don't make it TOO long or you won't be able to get it in the hole when the engine is in the car.
Stomski also makes an adapter that is a metal tube that screws into the spark plug hole and has the same 14mm threading on the top end, a tiny bit exposed. Would make it really easy as well, if you could buy them. Pelican seems to offer them, but seems to be out, and I couldn't figure out how to buy them from the Stomski site. I probably didn't try hard enough.

I didn't have that much trouble getting the hose started. I thought about wrapping it with a cut pipe to make it easier, but only 2 out of the 6 cylinders gave me any problems at all, and only 1 of those two was difficult, and that one only took about a minute to get it going.

And yes, I would look for other solutions if I were going to do this all the time, but I figure once every 3 years is often enough to buy a new tool
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:23 AM
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David23 and I got the engine all disconnected, but we didn't actually remove it from the bay. My question is whether or not I should just roll it down and out myself, or wait for someone to come over and help? How many do the final pull-out without a spotter ? I nearly dropped mine once, so am extra careful now, but wonder what the concensus is. The shift rod still hasn't cleared the tunnel yet.
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:26 AM
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James: Glad to see it's started.....I've always had hands bringing it down, but many have done it solo. I did put mine in this last time by myself, so I don't know that coming out would be a lot different. I use an ATV jack for the up/down, so I'm not balancing on a floor jack.

One other tip, when I dropped my engine prior to getting my lift, I raised the car moderately high and level. When the engine was secure on my ATV jack, I then lowered the front of the car, which raised the rear end way up and clear, then I lowered the jack and pulled the engine/trans out. This technique was suggested to me by Bill Miller, and it worked very well!

I'm going to be gone until before New Year's, but I'd be happy to perhaps help some time after the new year. I've got a rod bolt stretch gauge for when you put some good rod bolts in, much better than a torque wrench.
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Old 12-17-2007, 04:48 PM
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When I dropped my engine t/a by myself I found it a great help to have the jack under the engine and a tranny jack under the t/a. Strapping the strap around the gear box really helped the stability, especially when doing this solo. It also helped to keep the shift rod from accidentally hanging up on the body. It takes a little longer to lower each jack but everything went smooth and it sure was a lot more stable.
Old 12-19-2007, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigem75 View Post
When I dropped my engine t/a by myself I found it a great help to have the jack under the engine and a tranny jack under the t/a. Strapping the strap around the gear box really helped the stability, especially when doing this solo. It also helped to keep the shift rod from accidentally hanging up on the body. It takes a little longer to lower each jack but everything went smooth and it sure was a lot more stable.
Ok, noob question - what does t/a stand for (in this context) ?
Transmission assembly ? That's my best guess....
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:11 PM
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Transaxle is my guess
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KFJ_SC View Post
Transaxle is my guess
Ah, good call. I tell ya, when I see the letters T and A, my mind wanders elsewhere...
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:34 PM
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Ding, ding, ding.....we have our quote of the day!

Quote:
Originally Posted by James Shoffit View Post
Ah, good call. I tell ya, when I see the letters T and A, my mind wanders elsewhere...
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Old 12-19-2007, 01:42 PM
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Ok, the motor is out :



And of course the obligatory :



Now for the "what is this" question :



When I pulled off the starter, that is what I found - Is that shredded cluctch material ? I know I will find out once I finish the disassembly, but I was too tired to do much more last night.

Back to the garage!
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:02 AM
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Maybe something got ingested thru the bellhousing inspection port and has been on high speed mix?
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:49 AM
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Interesting turn... it was my clutch! There was nothing left! This is probably the whole caust of the clunking - it was dramatically offcenter, of course... Pictures to follow (few hours from now).
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:00 AM
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So when I separated the tranny from the engine this morning, this is what greeted me :



You can see the shreds of clutch material all around the edges...

Here is what fell out onto the floor - the largest piece :



So methinks I need a new clutch. Maybe a new pressure plate as well ???



The revised plan is to replace the clutch (and maybe pressure plate) and put the whole thing back in and see if the clunking is gone... If so, I'll race it another season. If it still clunks, back out she comes... *sigh*
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Old 12-22-2007, 08:46 PM
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Wow! So, are you thinking that the over-rev may've spun the motor up enough that you peeled what was left of the friction material off of the clutch plate?

Based on the fact your compression/leakdown numbers were good, I'd say you have a good plan in replacing the clutch and seeing what you have.

If this is the case, you got a huge Christmas present this year!
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Old 12-23-2007, 07:42 AM
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guess the flywheel looks the same?

Old 12-23-2007, 04:28 PM
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