1 Car, 2 Engines, what would u do?
 

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on my situation. I bought a 66 911 this past summer (07) the car is NOT stock, the PO installed an IROC body kit to it, so I would have to do a lot of work to get back to the slab side, skinny wheel car it was originally. That said I like the look of the car and enjoy the fun I have driving it.

The situation is this., The car has a 2.2 lt engine installed in it, runs good no real complaints. PPI showed it to have good compression and minimal leak down. I also got the original 2lt engine with the car, IN PIECES of course. The 2lt was set up as a 2.5lt (this was done over 20yrs ago) What I have are the major components: Block, P/C's (mahle 90mm), Cylinder heads (cut for larger piston), Cams (early solex part# , unknown if regrind), rockers, crank, rods, chain tensioners. I don't have bearings, seals, carbs (current engine has weber 40ids) distributor.

Given the mod's to the body and original engine of this car, is the original motor worth reassembling and running in the car or do I just drive and enjoy the car as is. I have no intention of doing DE'S or AX I enjoy touring and using the car for pleasure rides.

I don't want to become a Porsche parts pack rat, and have two engines and misc parts stored at my house, but is there any value in selling off the 2lt or better to put it back in the chassis and sell the 2.2lt.

Thanks for reading

Joe

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199293559.jpg

What's the VIN number? Do you have the original gearbox also?

The 90mm option with Mahle p/c usually resulted in very low compression. That said, there's value to the case and whatnot, but depending on the car it might be worth more with the car itself, and you can sleeve an AL case to put it back to 80mm jugs.

John,

vin#302694 and the 2lt serial #902833 the original gear box is in it now. The PO did not like the 2.5 set up, he said the cam was not street friendly (his words) , no real power under 4k.
he was able to get the 2.2 for short $ and ran it stock. I believe it to be a 68 or 69 E engine.
serial #6102400.
Would the 90mm not be a good street/touring set up. I not looking for "original" obviously
just want a reliable ride and best value for my $.

Thanks
Joe

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the data points, these are very helpful to us early SWB guys. Do you know that your car is ONE chassis number before Porsche made the front strut-tops adjustable? I'd love to see a pic of the front shock towers just to be sure, but you shouldn't see any bolts, just the rubber bushing at the top of the shock.

Since you have a likely numbers matching car (the engine # is consistent with the serial number range, but only the COA can tell you for sure) it makes sense to keep the original engine with the car. That way, if SWB cars shoot up in value in future years, you'll still have the elements necessary to capture that value-- whereas if you sell the aluminum case the party's pretty much over for capturing absolute top dollar.

So the next question is, where is the RUST? Whether to dump any money at all into it or just run it as is, that's really a function of how rotted the chassis is. Some guys say, "rust free" but there's no such THING as a rust-free SWB-- even when my restoration is finished I'm sure there will be rust lurking SOMEWHERE lol.

If the chassis is fairly sound and no serious rust, then I think it makes sense to fix up the original engine as a streetable 2,5 with good torque and decent power for around-town use.

Engine no 6102400 is a 1970 911T engine.

http://members.rennlist.com/tweedt/stoddard2.jpg

It probably has rusty cylinders which tell you they are cast iron, and it will have a non-counterweighted crankshaft. The case is probably a magnesium 2R which will need a LOT of machine work to bring it back, and even then isn't as strong as the later revisions to the case, and nowhere near as strong as the aluminum case (although MUCH lighter). I would part out that engine to raise $$ for your rebuild of the 2,5, and save the 911T cams for street use, the intake closing point is definitely much better for use with the low-compression pistons.

John,

Thank you for the info on the 2.2, the 2.2 is in the car and running now, so I would part it out after the 2.5 is ready to go.

Yes it is a non-adjustable front end, no bolts. I have found some rust thru in the area of the oil tank, dime size hole, couple small holes on the passenger side floor pan up high near the fire wall. The PO did some repairs to the area around the longitudinal and replace the rockers. all and all it's pretty solid compared to what I have seen on this and other sites.
of course the flares, nose, rear bumpers and front fenders are all fiberglass so that removed a lot of possible rust area.

Joe