1/8" exhaust valve movement. How bad??

[Crashly]

Well I guess that I have bad news. The valve spring removal tools finally came from pelican so I did an in car removal of the intake and exhaust springs from #1. I was hoping that one of the springs would be broken ( I was hearing a slapping sound through the stethoscope). No such luck. The intake movement was smooth with no noticeable side to side play. The exhaust was a different story. The first thing that I noticed was that there was a thin three layer wire around the valve with a little bit of plastic. My guess that that was all that was left of the valve guide seal. I pushed the valve in until it hit the top of the piston which was probably around 3/8" or so then I started moving it side to side. It moved around 1/8". I know that 1/8" is bad. Now the question is how bad??? I wish that I could do a top end rebuild but the motor is a 2.7. When I did the valve adjust a couple of weeks ago I did not find any pulled head studs. Is it possible to do a top end only without later pulling the studs? My motor runs good with a minimal amount of smoke at start up, and I do not have the funds to do a complete rebuild right now. Has anybody ever had success with a top end only on a 2.7?

[Eagledriver]

At least you found it before you dropped a valve. Here's what I would do. Buy a good used 2.7 case that has the timecerts/case savers done already. Then rebuild the engine using all your old parts but with a valve job. Of course you should replace anything that is really worn out but I bet most of your parts will be reusable. I saw a 2.7 case on the for sale forum from Ed Baus (sp). I did this on one of my engines and got the new case for 500 dollars. This will be much cheaper than having your case machined. I also recommend using Dilivar headstuds. I know this goes against most recommendations but mag cases have been known to have the timecerts pull out with steel studs.

You could try to just do the heads but you are taking a big risk. Of course if it doesn't work out you are only out your labor and a gasket kit.

-Andy

[Crashly]

Andy, I like that idea. It sounds like the only hard part would be finding a machined ready to go case for 500. Or is that just dreaming?? I wish I knew more about the history of this motor. I know that it had a five blade and thermo reactors up until 115K. From what I gather the original valve guides only lasted to 30-50K. If the valve guides were replaced I wonder if the head stud inserts were done?? I pulled the alternator last bight and I am in the process of figuring out if it has time certs etc. How can I tell?? If it has the work done I would only do the heads.

[Eagledriver]

You should be able to tell just by looking at the case. The inserts are steel and are bigger than the studs so they show up at the holes. If the studs look like they thread straight into the magnesium then there are no inserts. If the hole looks larger and has a steel lip around it or slightly recessed then it has the inserts. I would think that if it was rebuilt it would have been modified with the inserts. If you look in Waynes book there are pictures of a case with the inserts installed.

-Andy