3.0L driven HARD on street
 

I am wondering if I need to be concerned about cyl head temps on a project I am doing for a guy who I know will be "boulivarding the p^ss" out of this car.
Running the tach up to redline as much as possible... cruising down what ever road with the tach way up there... he likes loud and wants the engine singing.

So, I got to thinking about how long this stk 3.0L will last before it explodes? Maybe you all will feel that the hi revs will push a ton of air past the cyls and be better vs. lugging these engines as some do.

For oil cooling, the tub has elephant finned lines, widemouth cooler in front wheel well, stk engine mtd oil cooler, fabcar enlarged oil tank w/ internal baffel to control oil sloshing and steady supply always.

Anyway, I was thinking about how the 3.2 heads have 1 ? temp sensor which I think only ties into the brain as a sensor reading, right? I don't believe there is a dash gage for this temp?.

What do you guys think would be a good gage for him to keep an eye on and have? Existing gages: numerical oil temp, stk bal of gages and a dual afr gage to be able to monitor afr in each cyl bank. Car is CIS.

Thanks for your inputs.
Bob

I would worry more about the rod bolts.

A 3 litre will last forever on the street no matter how hard it's driven as long as it's properly warmed up first. It will last a long time even in race conditions if oil temps are under control. Some racers even run a slower fan speed to improve power at high RPM. There is no need to look at CHT IMO. Stock rod bolts are fine on a 3.0 engine.

-Andy

thanks andy and turoteener.

trust me here guys as I am not trying to cook up more to do on this project, but, are there any other gages that may help in telling of a potential problem area while the engine & car are being beat on??

All I can think of if maybe a numerical oil pressure gage vs. the 1-4 druk gage?
Possibly what some racers use as the key gage of how engine is doing?
Thanks
Bob

Yeah, sorry I was thinking 3.2. 3.0 is good on rods. I would add a wideband. You might also add a hobbs switch attached to the oil pressure sending unit. Cuts the engine at low oil pressure.

Might go with Ti retainers on valve springs, so there is a little safety margin for rpm. You might even look at an MSD rev limiter and epoxy the chip in place.

Thanks Brett for your inputs. May I ask a few q's about these as I am not familar with some.
1. I am making up the dual afr meeter and will use a wide band sensor I think.
2. Hobbs switch... I understand the concept you describe but I have no experience with this. Any info on how to do such?
3. Ti vavle retainers I guess vs. OE? Are the OE prone to fail ~ break if engine buzzed?
4. MSD rev limiter... does the stk jet tronic cut fuel a/o spark at max rpm?? Please explain why this and how to set up?
5. Would a numerical oil pressure gage be good? I know my guy does not want to replace the clock with lite to blink or glow when oil pressure gets low... maybe still put a lite somewhere though to blink a/o glow in case of during the heat of the battle draggin' mustangs and what ever he can be signaled something up with oil pressure???
Thanks for your time and input!!
Bob

3. Ti valve retainers are to reduce valve train weight so the valves can close instead of lagging and hitting the piston at high rpm (valve float)
4. the stk jetronic i beleive has an rpm limiter at 7k rpm. Theres a box behind the tack that does this. Sometimes people unplug it because it can have problems. You might just better get a rpm limiting rotor rather than convert to msd. Msd wont do anything for a stock motor.

thanks porschedude... that is cool that you can have the dizzy configured so that it does something to stop spark? going to the cyls at a certain max rpm i.e. a certain centrifical force/value?
Any other parts of the valve train to change for protection?

I am doing things to the 915 trans i.e. an internal wevo gate shift, wevo bearing retainer plate, wevo shift coupler, wevo shifter. I hope these minimize or eliminate the miss shift or as some call it the "Money ****s" from 5 to2 when wanting 4 OR 3 going to 4 and find 2nd...that one really buzzes the engine if 3 is tached out at shift time... ouch just thinking of it!!
Thanks,
Bob

I just did some research on this subject, the Ti valve spring retainers... here is what I found a few questions:
1. the pelican set p/n 901 105 911 TI M336 sells for $338 zing... just for the "retainers" !!
2. Q: A) do I also need valve spring seats? If so, Ti or OE?
B) Will OE springs fit to the Ti retainers?
C) do I need valve spring seat shims?
D) can the retainers be installed with heads on engine? I guess put cyl to TDC so valve won't fall into cyl?
E) should I also replace keepers? If yes, OE or Ti if available?
F) I guess I should get the Valve Spring Adjustor tool, PEL -TOL-P228 to measure existing if I re-use and/or the new ones length & correct height when installed?
G) smart racing sells a kit containing springs, retainers & bases... good to 8k rpm, super duty... blah blah blah... are these worth it or should I piece what parts suggested here together for what is recommended? I.E. just do the Ti retainers...will OE springs and other pcs all fit?
did I miss anything? My guess is I have asked too many q's and too intricate of q's? I am not trying to sound like a what ever, but am I over anlyzing this? ((((((((((((( PLEASE REMEMBER... this application is a STK 3.0L CIS ENGINE GOING TO HAVE THE P^SS REV'D OUT OF IT AND A FEW MISSED SHIFTS FOR SURE AT HI RPM FROM NOVICE BOULIVARD KID I am trying to protect engine from)))))))))))))
Bob

I am not a big fan of rev limiting rotor buttons because of spark scatter. MSD boxes are much more accurate and they have a soft revlimiter. It will do nothing for a missed shift though.

As far as Ti retainers, you can get them to fit stock spring diameters.

You could wire the horn to the low pressure oil switch. Will be more effective than a light, but he may look like an idiot if he ever runs the oil pressure low because the horn won't go off.

Yes you are! :D
-Chris

If your really worried about it put the stick on heat sensors all over the engine. You should be able to get a few from the engine rebuilder organizations. They will melt if the engine is overheated in anyway. Then you have proof the engine was abused.

Or just don't build it if you are this concerned about the competency of the customer.

Hey Brett, you hit it on the head...I have been running down this razor blade edge for quite some time now...

Anyway, I called Smart Racing Products yesterday and an older fellow answered the phone saying "Gerry here"... I spoke with the legend!! Anyway, after a very informative conversation, Gerry told me that on ALL of his engines he uses the previously said valve spring kit... EVERY ENGINE... I asked even is an engine called for ge100, his reply was "yup, we have been using these kits for 20+ yrs and they work great. His kit has alum retainers and the springs are made to his spec i.e. 100# on seat & .520" max lift at valve which covers all camsf".

He also felt to best protect against an engine "BUZZ" situation, do the spring kit and to do the wevo gate shift & wevo shift tower.

I also plan on doing the chain tensioner collars in case of lost pressure a/o failure, the oil restriction plugs in cam towers.

Any other add-ons I should consider?

Is there some device that will not allow the engine to spin past a set rpm that I don't know about?

Thanks, Bob