2.7 loose ehaust studs?

[caporsche]

I've been reading the posts on the forum and have been really impressed with the knowledge and advice offered. I have a 1976 911 with a 2.7 engine that recently began make a clicking sound when cold or under load. I took it to my mechanic who removed the heads and advised me that a couple of the exhaust studs were loose. He recommended looking for a 1978 to 1983 complete 3.0 engine to replace the 2.7. He said my other option was to have casesavers put in the magnesium case (estimated $1500 machine work). Any suggestions?

[Ray_G]

I am far, far, far from any sort of expert on the 2.7, but am rebuilding one now. You say you had loose exhaust studs? If you are talking about the ones that hold the exhaust system on I doubt there is any reason to rebuild the engine over that.
On the other hand if you are talking about pulled head studs from the case, then you need a rebuild soon. I just had the case work done to my 2.7 and the cost to get my case savers installed, spigots bored, case decked, a valve job, crank polished, cam towers milled and all the oil galley plugs pulled and cleaned was 2200.00. With an interesting note that my case did not need to be line bored. I don't know the cost to do that, but I am guessing another 500.00 at least. I guess I can only repeat what others say about the 2.7, it is a slippery slope once you open one up. I am not quite done with buying the parts for mine, but it looks like about 4500.00 for the rebuild using in spec, but used pistons and cylinders. Add another 1k-1200 for cylinders if you want new. If you use the search function you will find tons of info on the 2.7.
Good luck,
Ray
oh, and that does not include any labor costs for putting the engine together, I am doing that myself.

[caporsche]

Thanks for the info on your rebuild. It is the exhaust head-studs that are loose. About ten years and 3,000 miles ago I put over $5000 in repair and upgrade work into the engine without a complete rebuild. I am not looking forward to put more work and money into the engine. I am leaning toward installing a 3.0 instead. How difficult is the swap to a 3.0 (1978-1983)? What parts are needed for the swap? How much is a complete running 3.0 going for in the current market?

[Ray_G]

I can't answer your questions about a 3.0 swap. But I decided to rebuild my 2.7 as opposed to buying something that was almost as old, and in an unknown condition. Really I talked to several people about doing the same and the machine shop are the people that talked me into the rebuild of the 2.7 for just the reason I stated above. The 3.0 is not immune from broken studs either. I guess it is whatever you feel the most comfortable with.

[dtw]

2.7s pull studs, 3.0s break studs. One used engine is often as good as another, though, when you do finally have to rebuild, the 3.0 IS cheaper b/c of the machine work needed on the 2.7s. You pay for that up front though, in the price of the used 3.0 versus the 2.7. It is an age-old debate, rebuild 2.7 versus swap 3.0. Many believe a 3.0 swap is false economy. It often can be.

[caporsche]

Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to look for a complete 911 3.0 engine? What price range is fair?

[Eagledriver]

There are often 3.0 engines for sale on the for sale section of this forum. Price range is 2500 for an unknown core engine to 4 or 5k for an engine in good running condition.

-Andy

[caporsche]

While looking for a 3.0 engine to replace my 2.7, I was told that a 3.2 engine may be a better choice, due to the lack of 3.0 engines available and better reliability of the 3.2. I was under the impression that the 3.0 was the most "bulletproof" of these engines.

[Eagledriver]

3.2 engines are fine but it will be harder to retrofit to your car. The 3.0 uses the same fuel pump as the 2.7 and you can make the wiring work as well. The 3.2 is Motronic and needs a different fuel system and wiring plus a computer.

-Andy