Well, I think my engine has to come back out...
 

I'm happy with the rebuild, but I did have one drip coming off the LH side of the engine, from the #3 head's bottom. It has gotten worse, and is clearly from the seal between the #2 head and the cam tower, at least that is what it looks like to me.

I did try and check the nuts when I did the last valve adjust, and while the rockers cover many of them, I was able to check torque on the bottom row, which all seemed good.

I can do a partial drop, pull the rockers and retorque all of them a bit tighter, but my guess is I "missed" on the application of the Loctite 574 on this joint. So, ultimately, the only/proper fix is to pull the cam tower on this side, and re-seal. Anyone here seen similar issue? Any other fix?

The mating surfaces were GREAT, no nicks, gouges or crud, and I "thought" I put the Loctite on evenly, and sparingly. But, the leak tells the tale, IMO.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208016844.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208016861.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208016878.jpg

Leaks like this one are why we switched from Loctite 574 to ThreeBond 1104.

Clearly, the correct repair is to remove the heads and cam towers and reseal the offending sealing surface.

As for possible repairs, we were occasionally lucky with a suction technique.
Remove the engine, place it on the stand.
Remove the valve spring from the leaking head and wash the area with brake cleaner. It is necessary to clean both inside and out. Once the area is clean and dry, compressed air help the drying, you tape a vacuum hose to the outside of the offending area. Next you apply loctite flange sealant to the inside of the gapping area. Turn on the suction and pray. Give the sealant 24 hours to cure and test with light weight oil. The leak is not pressure fed so you can test your repair without running the engine.
Loctite 568 flange sealant might be a better choice for this process because of it's lighter viscosity and higher tensile strength.

Good Luck

As usual, thanks Henry. My guess is I just pull the entire tower and re-seal correctly. Since I have to remove the engine anyway, the worst thing is that I get to pull the chain box and re-time the cam. Why take the chance?

Or, I could take it to a knowledgable Porsche shop somewhere near Escondido, my new home town....;)

If you could do the little suction trick that would be awesome. Good luck.

Welcome to the neighborhood, come by and have a coke.