3.2 ....or bust!!!!
 

FINALLY... all the Dilivars (Devil-bars) are out of the case ('H' - 87)....so, time to think about rings. The P&C's look beautiful....you can still see the orig factory x hatching on the cyl walls...& THANKS TO THE GODS, the "refridge magnit"....STICKS to the cyls..... Any recommed's for brand of rings??? I will just break the glaze on the cyl's with a grape hone (10-15 sec. per cyl. ???) before they go back together. From what I read, the current factory steel studs are good to use. The heads are out for new guides & exh. studs. Gee, if I'd only know how fun this wuz, I'd of tried it years ago....Wayne's Book made me feel brave..(& my friend is a Porsche Mech.....that REALLY helps me feel "brave"). I'm planning to backdate the clutch arm set up to the 1974 arm instead of the 90 deg. bent cable 75-77?? version....anyone else done this ????

Goetze rings are fine for a mild rebuild. I hope you plan to go into the short block and replace the bearings (some mechanics say not to on <80k engines but... I've found this to be false on 2 rebuilds). I have a similar Chevy with 245k miles... you can't kill 'em.

Greg,

I won't tell you how to rebuild your engine but I will tell that if you touch those cylinders with a grape hone, you will ruin them.

Obey Steve

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pray.gif

Seriously, I wouldn't mind him telling me how to rebuild mine.

I would replate those cylinders.

If all is in spec what's the best way to prep Nikasils and pistons before installation?
BTW...just curious about the replate comment...if the cylinders are in spec and in good condition why replate?

the more things you freshen up while you can the longer the motor will last (ex. small end rod bushings, replate cylinders, balance rotating assembly, knife edge, any machining work, etc.) remember, these are Porsches, not chevys. Precision>economy. The cylinders may look fine but they will not be factory tolerance.

I usually use my old rings if they are not worn out. I've not tried to re-ring Nickasil cylinders but if I were to try I'd just do what I've done with Alusil's. I clean them in a dishwasher then run a hone with scotch brite on the pads through them for 20-30 seconds. If the coating is not worn off (you can see if it's worn through at the top of the bore where the rings top out) and there is no "ridge" at the top of the bore then I see no reason to replate them.

Other than valve guides not much seems to wear out in the first 100k miles or so.

-Andy

Andy, just to clarify, are there any benefits to reusing old rings? I'd assumed the best thing is to replace them but is this correct? I ask b/c my old rings "look" good but I assumed they were best thrown away so I have not even tried to measure them. I have no problem replacing them but I want to make sure I'm doing the best procedure.

if the end gap is o.k. then they will be fine.