Cleaning Accelerator Mount and other parts

[notmytarga]

I'm doing all the things to begin reassembly of my 2.7 CIS engine. Most parts are cleaned and bagged, powder-coated etc. I broke out the blast cabinet with Al Oxide media to clean stuff that didn't go to the powder coaters or machine shop.

The bible - Wayne's rebuild book - lists on page 67, the parts that can be blasted vs those that should be washed and NOT blasted. I blasted the intermediate shaft cover and will sandpaper the mating surface flat and was planning to blast the accel plate but the Engine Book recommends not to. Right now it is almost the dirtiest part I have even after soaking for a week in kerosene and some brushing.

Why not blast? I will be replacing the bushings. Would glass or plastic beads be better?, walnut shells?

At the same time I'm hesitant to blast the CIS intake runners because they look OK, have those plastic injector holders that haven't moved yet, and seem like a big risk if they held stray media.

[sww914]

Stuff like that I'd send to the machine shop to have it soda blasted. Soda doesn't abrade the metal and it washes away with water.

[euro911sc]

hunh? I disassembled the accel plate and blasted away with glass beads. Looks great. I cleaned all the steel parts by hand and bought new bushings to re-assemble. Action is smooth and ready to go:



(yes I know... the ball joint is on the wrong side... it is just holding there until the injection is cleaned and put on )

I took out all the injector stuff and media blasted the runners inside and out. Turn the hose on full blast and they clean up well enough after so no worries on media getting into the engine. Just remember to file down the detentes prior to inserting the injector sleeves and then re-ping. I used a center punch and it worked out perfect:




Enjoy!

-Michael

[notmytarga]

Soda blasting wouldn't be something I could do with my cabinet but is a good suggestion for getting the pistons and cylinder externals fully clean after the ultrasonic time that they had. Soda would be a good choice for the CIS intake as well. I'll look into getting the injector sleeves out.

Euro911SC - Nice detail work - what did you do to your shroud? I used a roll of "Silicone Fusion Tape" for OSH to rewrap my oily harness. It worked well.

I may try the walnut shells from my vibratory tumbler and see how that does - the abrading nature of the Al Oxide is rough for aluminum and other metal that won't be painted.


What is it about the accel mount that takes it off the blast list?

[euro911sc]

The shroud looked like crap. All the harness wires and plug wires had worn grooves and such in the FG and some idiot had tried to repaint it whilst it was in the car!! I drilled out all the rivits and removed the metal air guide, first. Then, I lightly sanded it down and used West Systems FG system to patch all the holes. I had to rebuild the part that connects to the fan to the right of the coil mount. Just used a fender washer as a pattern and then filed it down so it looked right. Then I used some body filler to fill the deep groves and scratches, sanded smooth, rattle can primer filler, and then rattle canned it red. Came out looing really nice.

During the engine assembly I had to do some custom filing and re-drill all the holes I had filled up (not all of them). It looks pretty tight, but I'm expecting it to get ugly in about a year or two... Should have used a better paint plus the Magnacore wires I have are too short to run in the factory locations or over the fan like a Carrera...

I thought about stripping the whole harness and re-taping it... then I thought I'd like to drive the car this year

Soda blasting is nice. Had my case and cam carriers done that way. Not something I would do at home unless it was outside. That stuff is too fine and gets everywhere. Plus its really humid here in FL and I"m not sure it just wouldn't cake right up in my gun even though I have 2 dryer/seperators inline...

Use glass beads... AL Oxide is too rough.

I think the accel mount is off limits unless you take it all apart. My bushings crumbled in my hand so I needed to rebuild it anyway. The shaft and bal joints are plated and if you blast them they will rust I suppose. I just used a tooth brush and Isopropal alcohol from the Rx. Cleaned up ok and most of the plating is still intact.

Enjoy!

Michael

[notmytarga]

I picked up some glass beads today. Will start with the right blockoff plate that I didn't Al Oxide yet and compare. Then I'll do the accle plate bottom at first....and of course it will be dissasembled.

I removed the metal from my shroud to deal with the rust - already hit that and the blower stand - will prime and paint back to black. Taking out the injector sleeves seems like a good idea - there are O-rings to replace even if they aren't brittle yet. Then glass blasting like yours seems like a good idea. There is that oil crossover tube that looks like hell....

The harness job wasn't so bad - 60 to 90- min max, $7 for 10 ft of the fancy tape. Half an hour to strip down to the rounds of tape bundling the wires where they intersect - don't worry it won't all fall apart. I cleaned the oily wires underneath, wrapped the bundles of 2-4 wires and then used that silicone stuff to do the thicker bundle, where the factory used 1.5 inch tape. I used liquid hand soap to lubricate the grommet toward the alternator so it wouldn't mess up the regular tape there. I figure I will use string in the grommet grove to get it back into the shroud hole - like installing the windshield - a double loop, so I put the narrow lip in that direction.

My shroud is OK - and it would be nice to keep it original - but it won't ever look as good as yours does now. Unless someone has a magic green fiberglass rejuvenation system.