Con Rod Nuts
 

I've ordered new con rod bolts from our host but planned on reusing the nuts....is this acceptable or not?
TIA

Reusing the rod nuts won't hurt, but why would you ? A 911 engine rebuild is a gamble at best. Why cut corners?
We carry rod nut replacement one step further. We use the serrated flange 928 nut with all new bolts, even ARP and ty bolts.
@ 2.50 ea it seems like the best choice.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211518844.jpg

Reusing rod nuts? No thank you, no need for Ti nuts either. Plus using a Ti(tanium) nut on a steel bolt is not the proper thing to do, those metals dont like each other that much. ARP is one of the better fastener companies, stock will always work but buy new ones. I hear of people dropping a lot of money on all the wrong stuff and then want to reuse rod nuts or flywheel bolts or this or that. Just replace it.

I'm about to buy a set of ARP connecting rod bolts for a 2.0S rebuild.
Is there an option for metric nut sizing, I know it'll probably never
come apart again but it just seems wrong to stick imperial sized
rubbish inside a beautiful machine.

andy

Buck, I would get new nuts, the threads fatigue too, and the facets of the nuts may be rounded if you look very closely.

Andy, you are exactly correct. As I was assembling my engine I noticed that a metric socket didn't fit around the ARP nut. The bloody thing is SAE! That's like white socks with a suit, how can anyone produce a metric sized bolt (10mm) with an SAE nut? There is absolutely no reason for it.

No one was recommending Ty nuts on steel bolts, although if properly coated they will work fine. What we recommend is the Porsche 928/944 rod nut (steel, serrated, flanged) on all 10 mm Porsche rod bolts. Even Ty and ARP bolts. They are of the highest quality and offer a serrated flange for better stability/reliability.
They also have a 14 mm head and are far more cost effective than ARP nuts.
928 103 172 02 msrp $ 1.86

As I stated above, the 928 /944 rod nut (12 point 14mm head) will fit the ARP10mm bolt ( 2.0, 2.2, 2.4, 2.7, 3.0 and GT3) and the ARP bolts can be purchased sans nuts at a greatly reduced price.

Weight?
 

Henry,
Is there any weight savings? Probably not much, but didn't know if that was a driver in using these.
Thanks
Lyn

There is no weight savings. In fact the 12 point nut actually weighs 2 grams more. The reason for using them is the quality. Higher quality/ low price equals good investment.

My main reason for asking was b/c I was probably going to start the reassembly this weekend and there was no way I'd get them from Pelican in time, but I can just buy them locally now that I think about it. I've been so brainwashed by the Pelican Kool Aid I forget sometimes I can buy parts here in Dallas....D'OH!
Thanks

Henry im just figuring on a streetcar the Ti nuts in any form would not be the right choice. I like stock and I like arp, just depends on your application.

Guys, SAE fasteners are some of the best out there, AN and NAS are in prolific use throughout all kinds of racecars. Metric is pretty much for motors. ARP makes some of the best aftermarket fasteners you can buy, its probably also the biggest name in the public. You can always call up Coast Fabrications and they can have custom bolts made for you but open wide...

If titanium is strong enough to be used for con rods it will certainly hold up to the stresses of rod nuts.

The issue is not strength as far as breaking is concerned. Titanium nuts on steel studs or wheel hubs have a tendancy to "creep". The factory used steel nuts on 917 Dilavar studs for the same reason. They tried Titanium on wheel nuts but found they backed off during a race, if I remember Fere's The Racing Porsches correctly.

Titanium does not break, it just flexes and heats as it expands and lets go of its clamoing force.

Correct me if I am wrong:)

Nobody suggested using Ti nuts. Henry said that he uses the 928/944 STEEL NUTS even on Ti bolts. STEEL NUTS.

has inconel ever been used in a Porsche motor? I know F1 cars use it for exhaust due to better heat retention properties than steel and especially aluminum.

Henry, how could somebody go about ordering ARP bolts without the nuts? I am in Australia.

I have only seen the nut+bolt kits online, is there a part number for a special order?

andy

Yes, I have a set of 935 headers made from iconel. Not a fastener....

i'll bet you had to shell out a few bucks for those, eh? How is the quality?

Suberb... the welds are impressive, all the flanges live in the same plane, and the turbos mount right where they should........

I have some pic (somewhere), but then this is a thread about fasteners.... not exhausts..

A marketing guy I used to chat with told me that your goal is to not to make your company the preferred choice, but instead in the customer's mind to make it the *only* choice they ever think of. Mission accomplished here!

-Wayne

they call it , "ONE STOP SHOPPING" to me... Wayne has created such by starting with answers to the how do I fix xyz... a live internet forum... and parts!!! how much easier could he make it!!
Now Wayne, you promised me that trans repair ~book... are you working with Grady on it??
That publication will wrap it all up for me and I will be hooked here @ Pelican for the rest of my life !!
Thx Wayne for everything !!!
Bob

Don't get me wrong....I willingly drank the Pelican Kool Aid and don't regret it one bit!

Henry & John, here is the response I got from ARP regarding ordering bolts sans nuts
and nut sizing:

Any comment?

andy

My comment is " he is probably correct".
The parts number is probably AR363-2. not AR-363-2
The rod nuts might be 12mm. We don't use them so I can't answer that with any confidence.
As for "We do not recommend after market nuts with our rod bolts. I would guess that they don't recommend other peoples products.
That is the nature of sales.

Just one more thing Henry, is there a special tool required for the
12 point flanged 928 nuts or will any 12 point socket fit correctly?

andy

Standard 14 mm 12 point socket.

Henry do you think i should replace my rod nuts, the engine was started and warmed up to temp a handful of times. The car was never driven, never broken in, so the engine never saw any load. The engine was completely disassembled because of oil leaks and after finding some metal in the sump screen he wanted to make sure all was still well . The builder is replacing the rings, and bearings but says the rod bolts were still within limits, should i invest in another set of the 928 nuts, do they also stretch or fatigue when torqued.

I hope someday i will get to drive this thing, it's going on 3 years now, the engine has been in the shop since Feb this time, i am pushing them to get it together this month. The car looks great.

I visited the shop this morning, no one was home but peeking in the windows i saw the heads were on and looks like all that is left are the tensoners.

Hi Chappy
I am sorry to hear that your project is dragging on. If there is anything I can do to facilitate a more rapid completion, it would be my pleasure.
Sometimes you just get so close and the end just slips away.
If you are using ARP bolts with my nuts, reusing them multiple times is not an issue.
Good luck.

Thanks Henry.