Inline remote scavenge side oil filter
 

I am installing a Canton remote oil filter in between my oil tank and the engine scavenge inlet. I am doing this to eliminate the possibility of metal particles that have showed up in the past on the sump screen. There may have been some lurking in the tank or lines that never flushed out.
? what size filter would be adequate to filter and not hinder oil flow, a fine element 8-micron or a fine 140 mesh 180 micron screen, the oil pump is a turbo pump.
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I don't understand. The scavenge port on the side of the case is the OUTLET from the scavenge pump and pickup. This carries high pressure and is routed forward to coolers and then back into the oil pump.

The PRESSURE inlet is at the bottom of the oil cooler and this is a LOW pressure gravity feed from the oil tank's bottom. The factory used a very coarse mesh screen in this line. I would think that a fine mesh filter would NOT be a good idea insofar as it can create a restriction to flow.

You should do a test: drain the tank and disconnect the "s" hose from the oil cooler inlet. Plug the "s" hose with a stopper, fill the oil tank to between the dipstick marks. Note the exact height of the open end of the hose, then pull the plug and measure the quantity that drains from the tank in a certain time. Then repeat the test with the filter inline, making sure to keep the setup as close as possible. I doubt the flow will be close.

I'd concur with John.

You already have an excellent scavenge-side filter and to be frank, you need to totally disassemble and clean the oiling system components if you are finding debris in the system. Thats SOP after rebuild before the engine is reinstalled into the car. If you have sufficient oil cooling, you can substitute the engine-mounted oil cooler with a pressure-side filter such as what the 3.6's have.

I cannot begin to tell you have many trashed engines I've seen from contaminated oil systems caused by a failure to thoroughly clean every component BEFORE a new motor is started. Thats a mistake that even many shops make,......

So i could install the remote filter in between the pressure outlet and the thermostat. And a coarse screen 250 micron inline filter between the oil tank and the oilcooler. All of my system has been flushed many many times over while my engine was being rebuilt but a metal particle was still found on the sump screen after the rebuild start up, the engine had to be re-torn down because of oil leaks and rebuilt, i want to add a safety measure before i start it. I have considered using the cooler blockoff filter mount from Smart Racing and using the front mount cooler as an option.

I already have both the Canton inline scavenge filter with a coarse 250 micron screen and the remote filter canister that has a 8 micron element in it and i purchased a fine screen 180 micron filter for it also.

Adding these components to the system would give me some reassurance that i they would catch something that could still be hiding somewhere.

Cleaning up after a motor blowup is a pain. This is what is involved (at a minimum):
- Replace or ultrasonically clean the oil coolers
- Take the oil lines apart and clean the connections
- Remove all the plugs in engine and clean out the oil galleries (which should be SOP for an engine rebuild anyway)
- Take apart the thermostats and clean them
- Clean the oil tank.
- Clean the crank passages, then clean them again
- I don't know of any way to clean the piston squirters, you can check them but that not a 100% confirmation that they are not holding crap. If it was my motor, I might gamble that they weren't plugged. If it was some else's motor, I would replace the squirter's.

Bear in mind that metal particles that are were deposited in cracks in a vibrating and hot oil bath are not necessarily going to come out with a little cleaning fluid flush.

I suspect doing this sort of cleanup is so onerous that many shops have to learn this the hard way. I blew a motor years ago but thankfully, Steve Weiner patiently explained this all to me so I didn't have to blow another motor to (re)learn this wisdom.
-Chris

Mr. Bennet 'splained the whole procedure very eloquently,...:) :) :)

There are no shortcuts here and failing that, your propensity for another serious problem goes up exponentially.

Whenever I see a scored or damaged #1 and/or #6 rod bearing and main bearing, I know the system wasn't cleaned out properly.

All of the above has been done, except the ultrasonic cleaning of the oil coolers which wouldn't be that much trouble to do still, even with the engine in the car..
I didn't have an engine blow up, so the metal that was found is a ?
If i filtered the crap out of the system wouldn't this work as a reasonable safety net to make sure the engine is protected just in case something is still there....I would think that this would still be a good thing to do anyways.

Filter before the oil gets to the engine and after it exits the engine, assuming the builder has everything in the engine clean, The only thing left to do would be ultrasonically clean the engine oil cooler, or add the blockoff with the filter adapter instead.

I just wanted to add here that i do appreciate your advice and value your opinions, thats why i posted this here. Many thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif