Zenith 40 TIN Carb rebuild by a Newbie.
 

Is there available any good rebuilding manuals for the early 911T Zenith 40 TIN carbs?

Factory workshop manual, available from our host.

Do a search. Somebody (Christien?) had a pretty good write up a while ago.

So, I've started cleaning out the first carb today. When I look at the "floats" inside it seems like they are different. Could it be that one of them have been distorted somehow?

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...d/DSC_0188.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...d/DSC_0189.jpg

An other question too. Were the carb housing all grey as new ore were they yellowish as new too? Or is the yellowish 40 years of patina?

So, now I have tared down one of the carbs. It apperars to have a set of Solex 28,5-40 in it.

I've read that stock size should be 27,5?

This site is very useful alongside the workshop manual I have.
http://www.gary.suggate.dsl.pipex.com/new_site/zenith.htm

But I just would like to know if there are any problems if I also remove the "butterflys" and axles from the housing prior to soak and clean the housing?

I was working on number one of the IDF40 Zeniths and screwed out the three Idle Mixture Control screws.. Well two of them.. The third one decided to brake!!!!:rolleyes:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...l/DSC_0684.jpg

This cant be good can it???

I think that I didn't manage to make it change position so I might be lucky and be able to drive it as it sits just by cleaning out the channels with brakecleaner??

Anyone go any idea on how to fix this??

Since I have exactly the same problem as Hebster I try refreshing this thread.
How to get out the broken screw?
Is it hard to avoid damaging the threads?

Well, after a few years of not doing anything regarding this I decided to give it a go with JB-Weld today.

Decided for awhile ago to just be rough and carefully drill out the remains of the needle and also drill out the threads... Maybe it would have been possible to save them but I didn't have tools and patience for that.

Instead I decided to attempt recreating the lost threads with JB-weld's chemical metal.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...d/DSC_1087.jpg

Keep your fingers crossed that this works. Will see tomorrow when the metal epoxyresin have cured...

Did you preserve the tapered seat?

Yes, all I did was first tapeing the needlestem behind the threads making it a tight fit into the hole. Then sprayed the whole needle several times with teflon spray.

'After that I only applied the JB-weld paste onto the needle threads. And then pressed the needle into the hole. Then tightened the needle one quarter (into the remaining old threads until the needle was tight into the tapered seat, This resulted just the way I was hoping. The JB-weld paste is only where the threads should be and nothing in the air channels or the tapered seat.

The teflon on the needle on the other hand helped me when I wanted to unscrew the needle.. :)

One thing I've been wondering about is. Do I just fit the gaskets without sealant or do I need some kind of sealant when fitting the main gasket (between the carbhousing and "lid"?

Thanks for the reply.

No, Sealant not needed. G'luck.

Ok, Now I've started to assemble the first carburator.

Now I'm unsure where all the o-rings are going. I know one set is going on the injector tubes (1) from the acc-pumps and there should be one set for the idle mixture control screws, but the only ones that might be for them seems to be too "thick"... In other words when I put one of them onto the needle neck it still is so fat I'm not able to push it into the needle hole... The last and smalest set of o-rings I suppose is going under the Air correction jet (3)

The question coming to my mind is: Do I need the o-rings on the idle mixture controll screws?

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9.../DSC_1100r.jpg

For those who might be interested I've got the project in my new blog now...

Hebsterwerks

Yes, there are o-rings on the idle mixture control screws.

Hi Hebster52,
Is it True?
How can i put the o'ring in that place?

There are no O rings under the Air Correctors.

There are O Rings on the Pump Jets that hold them in place and stop them leaking between the top and body of the gaskets.

The O ring Supplied for this purpose in most of the repair kits is a poor fit and doesn't hold the jet correctly.

Have you tested the jet and made sure that he ball valve is free as sometimes they are 'gummed' up and don't operate correctly.

I have found that some of the 'repair' kits have gaskets that aren't great quality an appear more like blotting paper than the originals.

I have just had the basic gaskets cut in good quality Klinger materials and am in the process of having Ethanol Resistant Diaphragms made.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse113d241.jpg

Also making them for the IDA 3C

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps43ca482a.jpg

and

Solex 40Pl

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...ne/Dash002.jpg