head stud loose - 2.7
 

OK, it's not a "new" topic - (I've already searched the forum for Head Stud & read the posts). I recently bought a 'barn-find' '76 Targa with 77K on the motor; runs & drives good, except...

Compression on all cyls (about 135 cold) except #1, which was 100 & makes a pf-f-f-f-t sound; diagnosis is one loose head-Nut - on botttom left #1 cyl; it won't tighten up, but it will screw off & back on; looks like maybe the stud is too far out, but it does not pull further when screwing down the nut

all I want to do is fix that one stud & drive the car for a while as a rat-rod,

IF - 'IF' - the CE ring is not already gone too, ... has anyone successfully got in there & heli-coiled or time-serted a stud hole without pulling the head?

(yeah, I know I gotta pull the engine... )

Now, I know a lot of you guys will tell me to rebuild the whole motor, but it ain't gonna happen anytime over the next year - too many other projects; don't want another dead car in the driveway

Well Larry,....you have a dilemma,..:)

Sounds to me like you have the typical pulled stud and that allows the head to get loose. This simply beats the head and cylinder all to hell,.........

There is no effective "field repair" for this situation.

If you consider the engine to be expendable, just drive it until it lays down, otherwise I'd recommend replacement or repair and neither option will be cheap.

Although I would agree that the best repair is a complete overhaul using all the latest machining, there is a viable option.
Your original question was "can you install a single timecert without removing the head?". The answer is yes. You will need to strip the engine down to a long block. Remove the air deflector that covers the stud in question. This may require that you remove an oil return tube. This will require you to purchase an expandable return tube (not my favorite but Band-Aids have their draw backs).
The timecert kit has every thing you need except the tap driver. Here is the trick. Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, a 12 point socket and a 12" extension. Remove the old stud and use the ratchet and extension the drill tap and install the timecert. You will be unable to use the counter bore tool because of cylinder clearance issues.
This is by no means the best repair, but in a pinch it will work.
Try your absolute best to control the chips produced during the insert process.
It would suck to go through the exercise to find out the chips have contaminated the inside of your engine.

This is only a good choice when no other option exists. My guess is that with the economy we are experiencing we are going to see more options like this used. If you choose to go down this path I will be pleased to walk you through the process but you have to promise not to tell anyone it was my idea.:)
Good luck

I like Henry's plan. If you coat the relief cuts in the tap with grease and only go one turn at a time and pull the tap, clean it and re-grease it; you will have almost no chips inside the engine. It takes a little longer but the piece of mind was worth it to me.

When you are finished with the time-sert and you have a stud in place (at the proper height) with a bit of locktite and properly torqued, try a leak down test to see if the leak has been closed. You will hear air escaping if the stud was unable to close the gap under normal torque. If the leak is still present, you will have to lift the head and inspect the damage. Maybe you will just need a new ring...

Thanks,
Mark

thanks guys - confirms my analysis
 

I have an '88 3.2 in storage so that is the end goal; but it can't happen until next summer when I'm off work

you've confirmed what I'd planned to try

- I figured to fit an insert & then loose & retorque the head to try to "set" it square, followed by a leakdown test - if it passes that, I'll put it back in the car;

My other alternative is to just put the car on Craig's List & see if I can recover the $6500 I have in it, and go look for a carrera;

I do know my way around a toolbox, as I was an ASE Master Tech & auto teacher up to 10 yrs ago - but am just a hobbiest now. The attraction of this car was that it's smog-exempt, so I can do anything I want to with it & still be street legal


some yrs ago I had a head come loose on a 2.7 during a race - there were worm tracks all over the cyl top - (the nuts had worked loose - but I swear it was torqued) I replaced the ring & lapped the cyl top - and it's still running fine about 6000 miles & several races later