3.2SS continues - Part III - the assembly
 

After lots of time sorting out my various issues the engine was ready to go back together. The build started with teardown.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/422194-time-teardown-another-3-0-rebuild.html

Then I collected some parts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/429416-my-3-2ss-part-ii-some-parts.html

then I solved an issue with cylinder height.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/431754-cylinder-height-problems-solution.html


I then dry-assembled one bank to check valve clearance. After verifying the limits I desassembled and started fresh. First by recleaning all the mating surfaces.

The other night I put the pistons in the cylinders, assembled them on the rods and torqued down the heads to let the Curil-T cure.


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tonight I loosened the heads, cleaned the mating surfaces, cleaned the cam towers (btw, this sucks), installed cooling tin, laid down a bead of sealant, smoothed the bead of sealant and then promptly put the cam towers on the heads. After lots of fun with the torque wrench the cams were inserted to check for rotation resistance. Thankfully, my work paid off and they turn freely with just the drag of assembly lube. They are as free as a bare tower. WooHoo!


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I was running a batch of silver powdercoat for the fan, shroud and valve covers. I figured I would do the cylinder cooling tin as well. If it turns black I know I have an oil leak.

Hopefully this weekend I will get the cam chain covers in place and start timing cams. I am really excited to get to this point.

I got my cam chain covers installed and everything inplace to time the cams. since my son was taking his nap I mounted up the dial indicator and started the process. After 10 minutes or so of making sure the dial indicator was setup properly I made my first measurement. It was way low (0.8mm) for the given time spec (3.0 - 3.2mm). I removed the cam nut, rotated the cam to the correct overlap and tightened it back up. I then did the same on the other side.

I get a repeatable 3.16mm (#4) and 3.11mm (#1). I don't think I will come closer than this. Onward to closing up my longblock.

If anyone thinks this range is too large please let me know.

Way to go Jamie!

Thanks Aaron. Its been way to long on this project.

I just finished installing the other 8 rockers, setting valve lash and test fitting a few parts.

Now I can officially proclaim a completed longblock.

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Next step is to powdercoat the valve covers and start installing engine tin and the shroud.

looks great Jamie !!
By the way, what size crank pulley are you going to run... 134mm by chance ?? And while I am asking, are you going to run the 'optimal' 1.81:1 ratio ?? (134mm crank pulley + 84mm fan pulley + 245mm fan + 9.5 x 725 fan belt) ??
Thanks, Bob

Bob, I am running the stock 78SC crank pulley. I did go down one size on the fan pulley although the exact dimensions elude me right now. I am using the smaller 226mm SC fan.

I know that parasitic loss and cylinder/head temperatures can be an issue but with the carrera cooler and good airflow I have not had a temperature problem to this point. Granted the new motor will produce a bit more power (read wasted heat output), I will address cooling as needed. LIkely, I will plumb an additional cooler in the nose. I have been wanting to use the sawzall for a few months as I have not had any rust repair in over a year. :)

After two weekends of weddings and other things in life that prevent me from working on car parts I was able to button up most of the engine.

The only things left are to modify the DS heat duct for the twin plug dizzy and run plug wires. It is really starting to look like a proper 911 engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225557783.jpg

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I knew that the DS heat duct would not clear my new distributor. So I had to fix the problem. First, cut a hole in the duct.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225574454.jpg

Next, make sure it clears the distributor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225574466.jpg

Now you can make a patch that fits the contour.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225574468.jpg

I used a pipe to bend the curve. Then I clamped in place with various pliers and clamps. After tacking I trimmed the excess metal from the edge. Next do a bit of welding, then a bit of grinding to smooth it all out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225574480.jpg

I ran out of time in the garage. finish grinding followed by a little powder coating will have to wait until another time. At least the part fits nicely and has plenty of clearance for the plug wires.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1225574485.jpg

me likee.:D

but why do you need heat in a car from Tx:confused: :confused:

Joe, When it gets in the 60s people wear sweaters in TX. Enough said. :)

Jamie, awesome work. Cant wait to see your numbers.

I finished the heater ducts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1226671851.jpg

Next step is to clearance the cam chain housing for the lower plugs. It seems I forgot to do this step during my pre-build.

The problem is that the boss on the cam chain housing will not clear the access hole for the lower plug. You an see this exact same boss on the top #1 plug. The factory was nice to cast this boss. It just needs a wee bit o' modification. I wanted to make a clean cut with the die-grinder but there was not enough clearance due to the installed exhaust. So I pulled out the rotary rasp and went to work milling the top of the cover.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1226671861.jpg

Here is the semi-complete hole. In this photo the edges have not been finished. but you can see how much clearance is needed. The whole top of the boss needs to come off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1226671872.jpg

Here is my test fit for the plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1226671886.jpg

The hole was finished by hand using a file. All aluminum chips were vacuumed up. Most fell through the backside access of the cam tower onto the ground.

Next installment will have the newly made plug wires. They were made but I did not get pictures.

Jamie,

Did you leave off, on purpose, the two 8mm studs at the top of the left chain cover to the left of the distributor?

Brian

No. These were the long studs for the mounting of the orginal smog equipment. They have been replaced with shorter studs and nuts.

Although when I bought the wrecked car that this motor came from these studs were just plain missing. No telling how long they had been missing but there were no leaks.

After weeks of my day job, Thanksgiving and my son's third birthday getting in the way I had a chance to do a bit of work.

The engine is now in the car. I think this is the cleanest it will ever be. For reference I mounted a second Crane Hi6 box on the fire wall. The EFI ECU is mounted inside on the backside of the firewall. I made a new ITB vacuum tree from a manifold I bought from McMaster Carr. That $14 really cleaned up the engine bay.

I think it came out well. I hope to fire it up this weekend.

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The engine was mated to a newly regeared transmission. I know everyone says that the 901/911 variants will not last long. We will see. Final gearing is really tight, doesn't have a high top speed, but should be a lot of fun getting there.

If you don't drop the clutch in 1st, a 901/911 will handle a 3.2SS just fine. Basically, don't drive like a teenager and enjoy!

Kenik, That is exactly why I bolted it up with AFJOU gears. :)

It'll go, that's for sure. Those are pretty tight splits for such a torquey motor! Can't wait to get your seat of the pants review!

Those be just like airport gears.... where you plannin on runnin that thang?

I'm building my 3.2ss into a dual purpose street/autox car and am planning on launching in 2nd using an E gear. then its M,V,Zd. This is complete opposite of your box. Curious how this will work once you get it on the road. :cool:

Very nice work and attention to detail

There are two reasons for this gear box. My favorite track has a relatively short main straight. I usually prefer to redline in 4th rather than the really quick and short-lived stint in 5th. The second reason is there are 3 corners where I feel that 3rd was too high to pull hard and 2nd was too short causing a necessary shift post-apex before the car was settled. So I designed a box around both of these issues. I dropped the ratio in 2nd, kept 4th as s new 5th and added an additional gear between the spread. Yes, they are short ratios. I will probably regret the mod with the new motor and its ability to pull harder than the old one. This should result in totally new rev parameters and lap times that will throw a monkey wrench into my plans. If that happens, I still have the 915 to put back in. Of course, it will be getting a 7:31 swap and hopefully (If I can save enough money) an LSD. The 915 regear is a bit farther down the road of time. I don't really mind the limited top speed as I do not explore that realm very often.