I knew I was missing something
 

What do you do when you get ready to start timeing the cams and you suddenly notice. CRAP the engine tin is not there. I said earlier I knew I was missing something.
Anyhow after studying the problem trying to figure a way to not spend 6 hours taking back apart and rebuilding from the cylinders up I figured it out.
Take the gear off the cam
Take off the 5 bolts holding the chain cover to the case
leave the cam and the retainer in place
Take loose all the head studs. (leave the cam studs torqued
Make sure the engine is sitting with the cam tower (head studs) pointing straight up
Separate the entire unit as one from the cylinders which will stay put. The heads, towers, cams, chain cover will all stay as a unit.
Separate just far enough to remove the return tubes. Pays to use good lubricant..
After return tubes are out set the assembly back to geather and install the cooling tin. You may have to flatten where the clips go then re-expand on the top side.
After the tin in on the re-separate the unit from the cylinders once again high enough to get the oil return tubes back in.
Put the head stud nuts back on and retorque.
Check to make sure you didn't loose any washers in the fins for the head studs.
Put nuts back on chain case and torque
Put the gear and chain back on the cam
Have a cup of coffee.

Sorry to hear that. Take your time and do it right. I know what your going through.

I ordered a set of 908/906 like air deflectors from Henry at Supertech. I needed longer connecting leg parts for my 3.0l , but they fit ok and you can put them on w/o taking the engine apart.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228073460.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228073523.jpg

You use your own top tensioners and the air deflector is in 2 parts: a leg and the deflector.

They come non-powder coated in aluminum and the legs are yellow zink/cad plated. Very nice product. Don;t powder coat the legs... they just get scratched up when you put them through the cyls.

Best regards,

Michael

I know this is a resurrection of an old thread, but can anyone confirm whether the sequence suggested by the original poster would work? Are there any issue around disturbing the seal between the liners and case, or liners and heads. Any other pitfalls?

I would be interested in doing this to replace the engine tin and oil return tubes on my 3.2.

Removing and installing the camtowers and heads as an assembly is a practice that's discussed in many threads on this forum, so it would seem that this is a legit approach.

Tintin
 

I did the same brain fade on the tin. I bashed out the oil return tubes, and then with a little bending/rebending the tin went between the jugs. Then I replaced with those CNC aluminum expandable return tubes our host sells. No need to mess with the cam sproket/timing in my experience.

Supertec 906 cooling tin. We now have a set that fits 3.0-3.5 cylinders.
Fit right in without removing oil return tubes. $ 96/set

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370984860.jpg

What is the function of the cooling tin, what would the consequences be without them?
What is benefits with the Supertec 906 cooling tin?

Bonus question:
The 3.6 engine has a different design, is that better or worse, can they be improved?

The cooling tin is designed to direct the airflow around the cylinders rather than past the cylinders.
The 906 tin was designed to fit a different cylinder design than stock / production cylinders. It promotes high speed air flow to cool the lower portion of the cylinder. Properly trimmed stock cooling tin works just fine but in the about situation only the Supertec tin can be fitted after the cam towers have been installed.

3.6 cooling ducts seem to work just find. No improvement needed. They mount to a special casting on the case so they can not be easily installed on an earlier case.

Yes, obvious when you think about it that you would want cooling air on the lower part.
Thanks for the education!