broken stud
 

Well it happened!!! I have a 1980SC and I heard a noise that sounded like a broken stud. And sure enough, I had TWO broken lower studs at cylinder 1. Oddly, the prior owner had changed the lower studs on the cylinders 4-6 only. My question is should I try the early steel studs or Raceware/ARP and do I need to put case savers in the lower case stud wholes? Seems like none of the studs pulled from the case. It's a stock engine and only a occasional driver, my 993 is my real baby. Thanks, hipdoc

You have to get it done or youll have warped heads. What ever you do,replace everything the same.
Steel works well, more expensive steel will work well too.
Dilivar lasted30 years.
No need to case save, thats for Mag cases.
If youre broke close to surface but can get ahold o fthe nub, use some heat.
Broke below surface is definite machinist work

Bruce

I was advised to use the steel studs on my SC when I replaced them. I think the inlets are steel, and exhaust ones were Dilivar. But my advice was to go for steel all round. No problem so far.
Oxy acetylene on case around base of stud. Keep tweeking stud til you feel it ease. Dont force it prior.
Sounds horrendous, and feels horrendous, but works - and nothing much else seems to.
Alan

My suggestion, depending on mileage is to remove all the cylinders, replace all the studs then reassemble the cylinders with new gaskets and go driving. Use Porsche parts, not after market (my opinion). Cost about $300 for a gasket set and supplies if you do it yourself plus the cost of the studs. Head work can cost a grand or more.

A set of (12) of these might help.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/461392-fs-steel-head-studs.html

If I could sneak two studs in there w.o. much disassembly i sure would try it

It seems to be the lower studs that fail most. If two have gone, the others won't be far behind. And much easier to remove when not broken off next to the case , ie intact.
And not a lot of extra work having gone that far.
Do them all, and use steel - unless someone has better experience.
Alan

It seems when I thought the fire was out as what to use ..the fire has started to rage gain..
Someone in authority posted here awhile back that one type for turbo and an other for N/A.
I am starting to think these have a life span no matter what one uses.
Maybe the Big Guns will jump in and give us all a update

They do have a life cycle, which seems to have more to do with heat/cool cycles than actual mileage.
Maybe an engine builder can suggest their choice - but there does not seem to be a unanimous consensus on this, ever. Just preferences that experience shows work better than other options.
Alan

Most recommendations I've heard say that OEM steel studs are fine for stock motors.

A friend turned my on to Walt at Competition Engineering - they're stainless steel and suppose to be similar to Raceware except the price. I ordered a set for $288 and waiting to get them. Anyone else using them? Thanks, hipdoc

To quote someone here loosely ..they said there is trouble with Raceware studs.
I wont say who as My brain sometime juggles the who part

Stainless Steel becomes brittle with the heat changes, its not recommended for exhaust nuts and studs so why would it be better than dilivar..

I have used the Supertec ones with great succuss.

Ed